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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 10-17-2013, 07:05 PM
Hurley Hurley is offline
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A few things today....

Firstly, my satanite came today, so I almost completed my forge. Though I forgot to drill an opening for my burner..........lol.

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Since my new grinder is probably a pipe dream until a few months past christmas anyway, I modified my little 1X30 so it was more accurate.

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Finally I did a little work on my new -- smallest I've done ever 3.5" blade -- knife I heat treated yesterday. And yes, I did it much better than last time. I got it almost orange and immediately quenched it. The oil was right next to it and I never set the torch down. One advantage I've found to scaling my knives down I know that the grind line isn't perfect and the plunge cut need work, but it's a work in progress.

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Old 10-17-2013, 07:53 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Well, you're making progress and that's the important thing right now. Looks like you got the Satanite far too thick. It will work just as well as it is but you simply used a lot more of it than was really needed. A thin wash as thin as ordinary house paint is all you needed and one or two coats at the most is plenty.

You said you got you blade orange and then quenched. Here's the hard part: orange is a color, not a temperature so it isn't a very accurate way to estimate when the steel is ready to quench. In your circumstances, the best way to do that is with a magnet. When the steel just becomes non-magnetic it is ready to quench. Orange might be right, or it might be a little cold or a little to hot in which case the steel will get hard but the grain structure will be less than optimal. Work on quenching just as the steel goes past non-magnetic. That means, right now as the steel is magnetic one second and non-magnetic the next then quench...


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Old 10-17-2013, 10:21 PM
Hurley Hurley is offline
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Ahhhh............got you, gonna have to get a new magnet mine is 100 lb pull....played with my oven tonight 425 for an hour gets the steel a straw color, actually a bright straw color. Well I have my forge built finally, so no more weed burner! Actually I may take that big nozzle off the end and fuel my forge with it!


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Old 10-17-2013, 10:41 PM
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Fulmaduro Fulmaduro is offline
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Hurley, get one of those small round magnets that are attached to a telescoping antenna (like old car antenna). Harbor Freight or almost any hardware store has them. I keep mine attached to the side of my forge stand and can grab it very quickly when I need to check to see if I am at critical temp. The length of the antenna (closed) makes a great handle too.

Also, never tried a weed burner as a forge nozzle but read on this forum somewhere that they do not work. Just recall that from researching my forge build. Good luck.

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  #5  
Old 10-17-2013, 11:03 PM
Hurley Hurley is offline
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I'll probably just make a venturi burner for the forge.........pretty simple thanks to the instructions on Rays Page http://rayrogers.com/venturi.htm


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  #6  
Old 10-19-2013, 05:21 AM
huntforlife huntforlife is offline
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I'm with Ray on the heat treat. Go to non-magnetic then quench on that steel.
I have a speaker magnet stuck to the top of the table directly in front of the forge opening. Pull the blade straight out of the forge to the magnet to test, then directly back in the forge if it is not. I keep the quench is directly below the magnet for quick transfer when the blade is ready.

Another thing I do (probably just me) is remember the color of the steel prior to testing on the magnet.
Even if it tests non-magnetic I always put it back in the forge and get it back to the color it was previously before hitting the quench.


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Old 10-19-2013, 05:56 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Actually, when the metal reaches nonmagnetic it is still a bit on the cool side for optimum quench and not quite at critical temp. If you are able to maintain your heat fairly even in your forge, take close notice of the steel's color as it reaches non-mag. Then look at the thinner parts of the blade. They will be just a shade brighter. Take your entire blade up to the one shade brighter and quench. This will be much closer to critical quench temp (if a lot brighter the edge has gotten too hot = big grain growth = bad).
This takes a lot of practice and concentration to get consistent good results. You will have to break a few test blades and etch the end grain to see what is really happening, especially along the edge and tip (thinner portions of the blade).

Agree on the overkill with the satanite. Should strive to get the interior smooth and more concentric for better performance. This can be done when applying the satanite by using a small wet chip brush with the handle cut off. Just keep it wet enough to "paint" the surface smooth. The weed burner nozzle and orfice is feeding way too much fuel and pressure for that small a forge chamber. Most of your burning is going on outside the forge (and you need really long handle tongs to do anything safely).

If you are only getting a light to bright straw color at 425*, you need to get a secondary oven thermometer for your oven and check for accuracy. Should be getting a strong bronze to slightly purple at that temp.


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  #8  
Old 10-19-2013, 10:53 AM
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racjarrett88 racjarrett88 is offline
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Better not eat that sour cream it looks spoiled.


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  #9  
Old 10-19-2013, 06:02 PM
Hurley Hurley is offline
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Nah, it's good!


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