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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #61  
Old 11-10-2015, 08:36 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I weld mild steel tangs to my damascus with a stick welder all the time, no biggie. But, a visible mild steel tang on a damascus blade looks like crap. If you're going to weld plain steel tang on a damascus blade you should do it as some form of hidden tang - a stub or a stick. That way, when the knife is finished the tang doesn't show.

Of course, your current piece of damascus isn't too fancy anyway so ....


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Last edited by Ray Rogers; 11-11-2015 at 10:40 AM.
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  #62  
Old 11-11-2015, 10:13 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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hey guys quick question i didnt know how i was going to go about the tang so i didnt HT yet now that i know i am going to so i got 2 questions..First the blade is 1080 and 15n20 how should i HT should i do the same as if it was just 1080? i dont have any quenching oil i have used canola oil is that ok to do? and should i HT the blade by it self or can i do it together after i weld the mild steel handle...i would rather do it with the mild steel handle cause i want to finish shaping the blade after i get the tang/handle on ?
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  #63  
Old 11-11-2015, 10:14 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh ray i was planing on after everything is done to put brass plates over the mild steel with finger grooves kinda hard to explain (still waiting to get the camera from my mother)
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  #64  
Old 11-11-2015, 10:39 AM
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If you weld the tang first then you can HT it along with the blade. If you braze the tang then you might have to wait to add the tang until after HT unless you are sure the brazing materials melt at a higher temp than your HT will use.

HT as 1080, canola is fine for 1080.

I'm sure all that brass plate stuff will work out OK but it sounds like a lot more work than is necessary. All you need to do is make it a hidden tang knife...


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  #65  
Old 11-11-2015, 11:45 AM
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oh yeh i know i could make the tang smaller and hid it in wood or something similar but i think it will look good to...i had a similar idea for a knife i made from a old file a while ago but ended up using wood instead so i figured i would resurect the idea....Ray every thing alright havent heard from or seen you on in a few days
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  #66  
Old 11-11-2015, 11:51 AM
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quick question wil 15n20 on its own rust? maybe depending on environment i have never seen rust on it even when kept in basement for a while
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  #67  
Old 11-11-2015, 12:12 PM
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Been very busy trying to finish my Bowie KITH entry and studying for an advanced amateur radio test I will take tonight. Besides, I try not to hog all the fun, let some of the other guys play too.

15N20 will definitely rust given the right chances. Maybe not as easily as 1084 but when conditions are right it can turn into a pile of flakes ...


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  #68  
Old 11-11-2015, 02:20 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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alright yeh i figured it would rust given enough moisture and time almost anything will rust but it cant be any where as bad as 1080 when i went and grabbed the left over pieces to add mass to that "dissapeering billet" the 1080 had a good coat of rust but the 15n20 looked new any shiny but also its not like it was out side or in garage i was curious because i was going to use it as a accent piece on the butt end of the handle i figured it might look better than the brass sheet alone...also got the camera i took pics of the billet before i cut it to shape ill post them later... i got the rough shape done i just gota do the bevels and small details i have never done the shaping with just the blade piece always had a tang on it so i think i might weld it to the mild steel before i do the bevels so i got more room to hold onto and in the vice....what do you think have you found one way easier than the other?

Ray good luck with the radio test!!! what kinda stuff you doin with that? what kinda radios....i dont know if its similar i think i told you my father used to do ALOT of work with CB radios fixing buying selling.... him and his friends had a CB radio club and belive it or not thats how he met my mother her aunt was in the club with my dad. I have a HUGE antenna on my house its crazy big he can talk to people in europe no problem and if the weather is right in the right place (lots of clouds over europe or africa) he figured out how to bounce the signal off the clouds and talk to people in austrailia. That is FAR for a CB. like i said i dont know if you mess with cb radios at all but we had a basement full of stuff alot of it has been sold over past few years but we still got some stuff. if your interested in looking for any of that type of stuff let me know ill see what i have any way GOOD LUCK TONIGHT
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  #69  
Old 11-11-2015, 02:56 PM
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If you weld (not braze) the tang I'd put the tang on first.

Ham radio, lots more bands and much more power than is legal for CBs . One of my antennas is 600 ft long and that's considered kinda puny by some of these guys ...


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  #70  
Old 11-11-2015, 03:48 PM
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ok yeh he never messed with ham radios (a lil but not much) well the antena we got is small compared to that it goes up probilly hieght of a 4-5 story building but its not just a rod on top it open's up to a diamond shape kinda and can be used regular (i dont know the word for it ) or directional and the whole thing can spin around NO ONE has anything even close to that size around here. well i am going to weld that tang on again good luck and if you ever do get interested in cb stuff he has still got some stuff and i am sure he will get rid of it for next to nothing its just taking up space
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  #71  
Old 11-12-2015, 05:07 PM
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hey guys question regarding the 1080, 15n20 blade i got here when i HT do i have to temper right after hardening or can one be done later....just curious say i harden tonight can i wait till tomorow to temper? i have heard people go both ways some say it doesnt matter and some say it does wondering where you guys weigh in
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  #72  
Old 11-12-2015, 05:41 PM
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It isn't a matter of how we weigh in, its a matter of what steel is being used and how it reacts. To be safe, you should always temper any blade immediately after it has cooled to room temperature after the quench. Some steels will tolerate waiting overnight, some will crack within the first hour.

Another way to look at it is that once the steel has cooled the internal structure is under tremendous stress. The sooner that stress is relieved by tempering the better your blade will be no matter what kind of steel it is ...


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  #73  
Old 11-12-2015, 07:47 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok i will wait till tomorow when i have a bit more time then...i have seen in the past some pages say to temper right away and i also have seen some people say it dont matter but as you said type of steel might be a issue there. you had said i should treat this blade just like plain 1080 right? now i have another question...last time i did this (or atempted blade came out ok to sharpen ok to cut but isnt used much soo thats as much as i know.. oh and this was when i was using coal not propane) however my atempt was first to normalizing then harden the temper sound right? so when i did it last i only normalized once since then i have come across other pages and post's where people normalize the steel multiple times. is there any valid reason to do this or is it just to be on the safe side to make sure it worked correctly?

by the way how did you test go?
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  #74  
Old 11-13-2015, 08:24 AM
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Yes, treat it like 1080 unless you have enough of it to test with so that the test might show you how to modify the 1080 treatment. You don't have enough steel for that.

Normalizing isn't always necessary but if you do it three times is the usual.

I aced the test ...


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  #75  
Old 11-13-2015, 10:19 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok thats exactly what i needed to know about the normalizing i figured i should just do it it cant hurt right?

awsome! good job with the test
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