Flux

[Eli Jensen]

Hey everyone I bought some 4% silver solder:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200574676736...84.m1439.l2649

I went to a jewelery supply store and asked for an acid free flux and they sold me black flux and I asked yeah this will work for low temp? They said yes. I tried it. No. Looked it up and the min temp is 1100F too hot for a knife guard!!!! I might try and take it back and get my money back but I'm not holding my breath.

Can anyone recommend an acid free flux for low temps? Thanks

[Ray Rogers]

As with most things like this I prefer the easy way. Check with any of the major knife supply places like Sheffields or K&G or Jantz. They will have 400 degree silver solder with the appropriate flux. Although I do not solder my own guards I have read enough about it to know that getting your hands on a good low temp solder and a matching flux may not solve all your problems because different metals may require different solders. But, you'll at least have a fighting chance.

For the rest of us, there's JB Weld ....

[macaroni]

try your local refrigeration supplier. stay silv flux.

[Eli Jensen]

What do you guys think of this stuff?

Amazon.com: "Simply Swank" Acid Free Flux For Solder Craft Jewelry - 1/2 Oz With Brush: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Amazon.com: "Simply Swank" Acid Free Flux For Solder Craft Jewelry - 1/2 Oz With Brush: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

[argel55]

Welding store should have StaClean for low temp solder.

[Ray Rogers]

QUOTE: "Amazon.com: Amazon.com: "Simply Swank" Acid Free Flux For Solder Craft Jewelry - 1/2 Oz With Brush: Arts, Crafts & Sewing "

What we think doesn't enter into it unless someone has tried it or Amazon supplies more data than I saw there. As I said earlier, flux and solder are paired for best results and I don't see anything about their solder (but maybe I missed it). Anyway, you can try it and experiment or you can skip the guesswork and get solder and flux from someone in the business of supplying knife makers with supplies that work for the materials we most commonly use .......

[Eli Jensen]

I'll try both I think. I've only done high temp silver solder so far, so I was hoping for some guidance.

I wanted to try acid free flux because I've heard a lot about acid flux eating the blade later on and I was hoping to avoid that.

[Ray Rogers]

QUOTE: "I wanted to try acid free flux because I've heard a lot about acid flux eating the blade later on and I was hoping to avoid that. "

Just another good reason to buy whatever the knife supply house is selling (usually Eutectic, I think) since that is obviously a concern to any knife maker. If you haven't already picked this up from reading, solder and flux combos differ according to whether you use carbon or stainless steels and even differ according to the alloy of the steel in some cases. If you try to put a stainless guard on a carbon blade or vice versa you'll probably have 'extra special' soldering problems. And besides, any flux can eat the blade, in fact, that is what it's designed to do so all flux has to be completely and thoroughly neutralized and removed to avoid problems. A properly soldered guard is a thing of beauty but you really need to be serious about learning to do it right to have any hope of real success. I tried it but I'm far too lazy (and use too many different steels) to make it work for me ....

[Horsewright]

Staybrite solder and the liquid flux sold with it has worked very well for me and I get it either from Jantz or Sheffields. I use it on brass bolsters on damascus, 440C, and D2 blades. Nickel silver bolsters are tougher. I've got er done but am considering switching to JB Weld for that as its not as clean as my work on brass. After you've soldered squirt it down with Windex. It will neautralize your flux.

[Eli Jensen]

Ordered a soldering kit from Jantz. Wanted to make what I had work cause I'm strapped for $$$ but forking it over now makes it easier in the long run. Also I learned that soldering stainless steel requires an acid flux. Non-acid I guess isn't strong enough.

[WBE]

In working with low temp solders, it is important to bring the heat up slowly and not let the flux burn. Not so easy in many cases.

[Ken W.]

Per Ray

"For the rest of us, there's JB Weld ...."

Been cogitating for several day on how to build up the bolster thickness on 1/8" Mokume to create a deeper bevel length and allow the the use of thicker scales. Decided I'd go with a base piece of flat brass bar with the mokume overlaid. Then comes the wondering..........Can I silver solder the two materials into a single piece for shaping?.....How and with what??.......Will I destroy beautiful and costly materials???(wouldn't be the first time)...There will be blind pins running through both layers, will that help, hurt or not be a factor???...........

After all that inner whining and worrying I come to TKN, click a couple of keys and get an answer I can trust. Guess I can pour the double shot of rum back into the bottle and get on with my day.

Ken

[Ray Rogers]

I believe you can buy thicker pieces of mokume if you don't mind the astronomical price. Stacking on top of brass as you described would work but silver solder will leave a silver colored line through the joint - it's up to you to decide how important that is to you. Of course, this assumes you are completely competent at silver soldering. If you are, no problem but if you're like me you just might melt that mokume.

I don't know any other way you could attach the two pieces together without significant risk or an even more visible joint line. JB would do it but leave an ugly gray line. The ideal way would be to press weld the two pieces together in exactly the same manner that the mokume was made in the first place but that requires absolute temperature control and a good bit of experience.

Once the two pieces are joined by whatever method (including screws or pins if you go that way) then just shape them as you would any piece of brass because that's mostly all mokume really is. Blind pins probably won't be any more of an issue with this than they usually are with anything else ....

[Ken W.]

Ray, I look at the knives you make, the longstanding role you have played here at TKN, the kind and encouraging posts you make and the incredible amount of your time you give to this community and I am overwhelmed when you take interest in a rank amateur's concerns.

I've used both JB Weld and PC-11 Standard to mount scales in the past and have had good success with both but agree about the ugly gray line. PC-11 also makes a Marine Grade that is white which might turn out to be tintable to a pleasant copper/brass or stainless looking silver. I'm also giving AcraGlass consideration. Since this board & thread is about flux and I'm running off topic I'll put my next post back on the thread I originally started.

Ken

[Ray Rogers]

Ken,

Thank you for the kind words but there are many others who do as much as I do and probably don't screw up as often.

I've been using AcraGlass (not the gel) and it is very good for the usual knife applications and it can be easily colored. If you do use it or any other epoxy to attach the two brass pieces you'll probably want to pin them as well since glue does not stick well to brass and grinding may heat the brass (and the glue) causing the glue to soften ....