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Fit & Finish Fit and Finish = the difference in "good art" and "fine art." Join in, as we discuss the fine art of finish and embellishment.

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  #1  
Old 03-30-2001, 06:07 AM
ansoknives
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etching Damascus


I was just wondering how you finish and etch Damascus...especially Stainless.

The way I do it on Damasteel is like this: handrub to 400grit sometimes 600-800. Then I mix a 15-30% solution of warm H2SO4 and etch for 5-8 minuttes. this gives a very deep etch. Then handrub with 800 (at least that is what I do on the blades that got a 400 finish before etch) to polish the "tops"

I like this very very much but might want something that gives more contrast in the color. The deep etch is a keeper though.
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2001, 06:34 AM
Don Cowles
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Jens, with Damasteel, I do what you do, but I do it with FECL instead of H2SO4.

With Devin Thomas and Mike Norris stainless damascus, each maker has his own recommendations, so the processes vary. The highest contrast is on the Norris; the Thomas patterns etch like Damasteel.
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2001, 09:31 PM
Bill Foote
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Try 4 parts ferric chloride to 1 part water. Light sanding with 1200 grit every couple minutes gets the film off until you get the desired etch depth (around 15 minutes).
Give it one swipe with a cotton ball dampened with Brownell's Gun Blue, then rub with 0000 steel wool. Coat it with machine oil and let it sit overnight.
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  #4  
Old 03-31-2001, 08:25 AM
Jason G Howell
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I follow Bill's except for the ferric. I use about 70/30 ferric to water. Takes a little longer, but it attacks the high N a little less and I like the contrast a little more. I'm anxious to try the Brownell's. Thanks Bill.


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  #5  
Old 04-04-2001, 02:58 PM
J Loose
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I follow much the same procedures as above. I bring my damascus up to 400 grit then polish on the buffing wheel with crome oxide. ( Don't use rouge as a small bit of it will contaminate the ferric. ) I clean with acetone and put in acid bath at 4-5 parts water to 1 part ferric.

One hint I'd like to share is to put your acid in a large glass jar- this way you can immediately see if you have any streaks forming from oils or grease on the blade and keep track of the progress of the etch.

Only thing different I do is clean the blade in between soaks with 00000 steel wool rather than 1200 grit paper. I usually do 4 or 5 etches for 10-15 minutes each.

Note I haven't done this on stainless damascus- just my own 1020/ 1095.

-J. Loose
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  #6  
Old 04-04-2001, 06:12 PM
Bill Foote
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I told you the wrong ratio of FeCl/H2O above, it is 4 parts water to one part HeCl like J. Loose said. After you have the etch done and have applied the Brownell's OxphoBlue gun blue, try 2-3 coats of NeverDull. Let dry and rub off. Then apply 3-in-1 oil overnight.
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  #7  
Old 04-04-2001, 06:45 PM
george tichbourne
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With Damasteel I prefer to mirror polish and etch in muriatic acid (HCl). This leaves the hard layer mirror finished and lightly frosts the softer layer...very pretty.

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  #8  
Old 04-05-2001, 05:35 AM
Don Cowles
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George, do you use the muriatic acid right out of the jug, or do you dilute it first?
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2001, 03:13 PM
george tichbourne
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Full strength out of the jug but I work outdoors because of the fumes. It takes 2 or 3 minutes when the acid is fresh and slows down as it weakens. Cleanliness is critical, I wash the piece in soap and water, and laquer thinners before etching.

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  #10  
Old 04-05-2001, 05:29 PM
Don Cowles
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Thanks, George. I may have to give it a try- my local Radio Shack does not have any more ferric chloride.
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