Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos

Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Ed Caffrey's Workshop

Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 01-02-2018, 02:25 PM
Ed Caffrey's Avatar
Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Great Falls, Montana, USA
Posts: 4,325
Send a message via AIM to Ed Caffrey Send a message via Yahoo to Ed Caffrey
Plug Welding Anyone? :)

Well, for the first time in 3 months I made my way into the Forging shop to see what my body would let me do. OH MAN! I gotta get busy and exercise! I turned into a noodle! This is a project I'd started back before my guts went south, so I figured it would be an easy physical project.

I started with a 1 1/4" X 5/8" thick piece of my "Fossil" Damascus, annealed. I bored 7/16" holes (no particular pattern). I'd already made some Explosion pattern damascus, and thought it would look good in a plug welded format. I forged the Explosion pattern billet round, then turned it down on the lathe to .4380" so I would have to "press fit" (drive it) into the 7/16" holes. I did the same thing with a piece of 1 1/4" X 5/16" 1084.

I hammered the rod into place, then cut it off on the bandsaw. Filling all the holes.

Next, I milled all the rods to equal length, milling both ends. Finish on the ends isn't important, but having ALL the rods the exact same length is.... if they are different lengths, and you try to hammer or press them when welding, you WILL get cold shuts around the outer perimeter of the rods.

Once all the rods are to equal length, it's time to head to the forge! I've had issues in the past trying to do plug welds "dry", so I flux with anhydrous borax, and have much better success. The key to welding, beyond proper temp/atmosphere, is to have the rods long enough that there is some remaining after welding..... if you hammer or press them flush with the surface, bad things tend to happen. My motto is..... I can always grind it off, but can never put it back!

In the case of the above image, the billet is 5/16", which means that once annealed, I can bandsaw it into two, 1/4" thick "slices", and forge blade from those.


"Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
Reply With Quote

1084, a, back, billet, blade, case, cold, damascus, easy, first time, forged, forging, grind, image, knife, made, man, pattern, press, press fit, project, rod, shop, surface, welding

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Plug Bayonet WBE Historical Inspiration 1 06-05-2013 03:38 PM
Plug Bayonet WBE The Display Case 0 06-05-2013 11:15 AM
recent work.....or shameless plug atakach The Display Case 5 12-11-2010 09:31 AM
Photoshop CS 3rd party plug-ins? tmickley Knife Photography Discussion 15 12-23-2004 05:40 PM
Hossom Plug! Shadowenterprise High-Performance Blades 8 11-22-2001 11:09 AM

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:34 AM.

Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved