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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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Stitch on Backside of Sheath
Can anyone give me some advice on stitching when it comes to the back side of the sheath?
I used a drill press with a brass nail to drill stitching holes and I found the offside holes to push out and be out of alignment. I tried running a stitching groove after the holes were drilled to help the stitch lay down as it does on the front. I can see this wouldn't be a problem with a sewing machine. It bothers me that it's not nearly as clean as the front side stitch. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Brett |
#2
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My off hand idea is that the work is not laying flat on the drill press stage. I have a board that I clamp to the stage that has two holes in it. One is in the center for work that lays flat easily. The second is right at the edge for things that won't. Like folded over pouch sheaths.
Another problem could be that the stage of you drill press is not square with the needle. Chuck the nail that you use and check with with a square to make sure it's at 90?. One more thing that it could be is that the nail is flexing in the work. Get a heavy steel needle, something like a drapery needle and see if that helps. A package might run you a couple of bucks at a hobby or sewing store. If it's just one a few holes you can correct it with a awl and a tooling spoon. Both cheap and available at leather work supply sites. Go into the hole from the front side and straighten the hole into the groove on the back. Then use the tooling spoon to work over the stray hole a bit to cover it up. Just be sure you come out the right hole when you stitch the sheath. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#3
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I used to use a stitch marking wheel to run back over the holes before I put a groove down them. To me at least it forced the leather back down into the hole instead of being pushed out.
Do you run the drill press when you are making holes? It burnished the hole better if it is on. |
#4
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Thanks for the advice. It makes a little more sense now, so I'll make a platform of sorts to support the leather better as the nail/needle is pushing through. The stitching wheel is not a bad idea either. I used it to push the stitching itself down and clean it up. Yes, I do run the drill press and it makes a nice looking entry hole. I'll have to make a few adjustments to the process.
Thanks again Brett |
#5
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I think you'll get better results if you do one of several things......
1. Replace your brass nail with a real sewing machine needle, a heavy needle size 25 or larger. Just chuck it up in your drill press like you do for the nail. DO NOT run the drill press if you use the needle route. 2. Replace you brass nail with a steel rod ground and polished like an ice pick. Make sure it's polished and smooth. Okay to run the drill press with this method. 3. with either method use a little bee's wax or paraffin wax on the needle or awl fairly frequently to lubricate the process. And pay close attention to the previous advice about being sure the article is flat or supported to insure an even line on the back. Paul __________________ Basic Pouch Sheaths and Advanced Blade sheaths DVDs are available at www.chriscrawfordknives.com ***New third DVD available at the same web site*** Paul Long-- 108 Briarwood Ln. W.-- Kerrville, Texas 78028-- Ph. 830 367 5536--- pfl@cebridge.net |
#6
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I use a sharpened 5/64th HSS drill bit with paraffin. If your sheath is not flat you will never get a good line on the backside. Many makers use boards with various cutouts to allow their style sheath to lay down flat. Hope this helps.
__________________ Brad Johnson LTC, Ret KMG since 1991 [IMG][/IMG] http://bradjohnsonknives.blademakers.com/ |
#7
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Besides what's covered already the only things I do differently is use a small drill bit to drill the holes. I don't stitch groove the back side but I dampen the back when I sew. Then after its done I dampen it again and force the thread deeper with a burnishing tool. I'm no pro but it works for me.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#8
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When you use a drill bit, you are removing leather. An awl, or the alternatives suggested by Paul, opens up a hole with a minimum amount of the leather being cut and widens by temporarily compressing the leather. After stitching, the holes can be "set" by tapping with a hammer or using a stitching wheel to bring pressure on the area. The leather then holds the thread tightly.
__________________ God bless Texas! Now let's secede!! |
#9
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I know exactly what you are talking about! I have started grooving the front side and laying out the holes with a stitching wheel. Then I will use a sharp awl and start the holes as straight as possible. Then chuck up a sharpened piece of steel rod and tun on the drill. The rod should seat into the awl hole an help you get the backside holes lines up. Takes a little practice but it really helped me. One tip is to run a small scrap piece of leather up the rod to cover the chuck so if you push too hard and the sheath runs all the way up it doesn't mar the sheath.
__________________ Barry Clodfelter Proud member of PETA....People Eating Tasty Animals There is a place for all of God's creatures...right next to the mashed potatoes and gravy! |
#10
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Quote:
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
Tags |
advice, back, blade, brass, drill, edge, flat, hammer, hand, hobby, holster, leather, leather die, leather tooling, make, press, sheath, sheaths, steel, stitch, store, supply, tanning |
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