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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 08-02-2010, 02:05 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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QUOTE:
To Ray Rogers: AG Russels one hand opening knife is the closest thing I could find to my design, I have contacted him and it is not close enough to cause a problem.

I didn't mean to suggest that it might be a problem but so many others seemed to be unfamiliar with that design I just wanted to point out that it - or something similar - was used in AG's knives and probably others as well. It's truly difficult to come up with anything completely original where knives are concerned. Everything we do is built on top of something that came before but that doesn't detract from your own accomplishment ......


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  #17  
Old 08-02-2010, 05:34 PM
pieinthesky pieinthesky is offline
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Thanks for spending the time Pipecrafter. The points regarding the screws I agree completely. I will be investing in an end mill to recess the pivot screw on the next ones. Also I have spent much time trying to avoid tapping Titanium and have considered screwing into the spacer, unfortunately it is little more than 1/8 inch thick and I didnt think this would give a reliable fixing.

The difference between the spring at open and at closed is intentional. It means there is greater spring force in the open position and therefore greater resistance to closing, and that the blade can more easily be started from closed with the thumbstud. Also there is very little tension in the spring when closed, since it will mostly be closed this will protect the spring from taking a set. Having said that the shape of the tang and the detente pin acting on the tang is the area of this design which needs most development.

Do you make folding knives? I couldnt find any on your website.

Regards

Mike
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2010, 05:36 PM
pieinthesky pieinthesky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
QUOTE:
To Ray Rogers: AG Russels one hand opening knife is the closest thing I could find to my design, I have contacted him and it is not close enough to cause a problem.

I didn't mean to suggest that it might be a problem but so many others seemed to be unfamiliar with that design I just wanted to point out that it - or something similar - was used in AG's knives and probably others as well. It's truly difficult to come up with anything completely original where knives are concerned. Everything we do is built on top of something that came before but that doesn't detract from your own accomplishment ......

Hi Ray

No problem, I wasnt being offended or defensive or anything.

Regards

Mike
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2010, 07:24 PM
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pipecrafter pipecrafter is offline
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Originally Posted by pieinthesky View Post
Thanks for spending the time Pipecrafter. The points regarding the screws I agree completely. I will be investing in an end mill to recess the pivot screw on the next ones. Also I have spent much time trying to avoid tapping Titanium and have considered screwing into the spacer, unfortunately it is little more than 1/8 inch thick and I didnt think this would give a reliable fixing.
Using the right screw it shouldn't pose a problem. You might have to go down in size, but using a small enough screw you should be able to make a secure fit, especially with two so close to each other. That said, it's merely a suggestion. You could alternate head and thread sides and still maintain some level of symmetry. But, this isn't an art knife, and it seems to be intended to be used, so strength is paramount here. In the end, you should use the method that you think is best for the intended use. And there's really one way to find out - make one that way, and see how it performs.

Quote:
The difference between the spring at open and at closed is intentional. It means there is greater spring force in the open position and therefore greater resistance to closing, and that the blade can more easily be started from closed with the thumbstud. Also there is very little tension in the spring when closed, since it will mostly be closed this will protect the spring from taking a set. Having said that the shape of the tang and the detente pin acting on the tang is the area of this design which needs most development.
Ah! I see. That makes perfect sense. I agree, and once again functionality will rule how it's constructed. It might be nice, however, to get the spring in the same place opened or closed. Perhaps a smaller divot in the tang (making an assumption about the tang and operation) for the closed position, allowing it to more easily be moved from there. I don't know, I haven't made anything like this design - yet.

Quote:
Do you make folding knives? I couldnt find any on your website.
I do. I make slipjoints primarily. I don't consider myself an expert, but I know what I like. The advice I give isn't necessarily as a maker, but as a knife nut in general.

Here's some recent work:





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  #20  
Old 08-02-2010, 11:39 PM
CWKnifeman CWKnifeman is offline
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Very nice design for a non locking folder. One question that I have for you how mush tension is on the spring, also does it walk and talk well. Or, does it just hold the blade in the open and closed position. If I understand the concept that you have going on that the blade is notched in the open position where the pin on the spring holds it in place but does not lock it in position as a liner lock or a scale lock would. and there is also a notch where it would be in the closed position to hold it in place as well. Nice design.
Curtis


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Last edited by CWKnifeman; 08-02-2010 at 11:42 PM.
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  #21  
Old 08-03-2010, 05:33 AM
pieinthesky pieinthesky is offline
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Pipecrafter, very neat knives, if you can make those you can make my design. You are right about my knife being a user, function before form on this one! Doesnt mean it cant be made to look better though. I will be considering your points thankyou.

CWKnifeman. The spring is fairly strong, (1/8 inch square x 2) I made it this way as they must resist the force from your hand when cutting down hard, also they transmit your hands gripping force to the tang increasing the force required to close the knife in use.

I am not sure what you mean by "walk and talk" but you have the basic function of the pin and tang correct. It was originally a round pin dropping into round notches in the open and closed positions. The cam is shaped so that there is a dead spot at 90 degrees a bit like a half stop on a slip joint. The pin now has a flat bottom to reduce the spring deflection and reduce friction.

Reducing the friction to make opening easier is my main goal at present and I will be playing with the cam and pin design. There is much scope for improving this. I think a square pin dropping into a shallow square notch would be the best arrangement but I dont have any drills for making square holes in Titanium or the facilities to make hardened square pins.

I could type for ages but have to go back to work now.

Thanks again for your interest, there are not many folder makers in the UK and I dont get much technical feedback from our forum over here.
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2010, 01:58 AM
reefera4m reefera4m is offline
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Great knives, especially for prototypes! Its an outright shame such talent should be restricted by ridiculous laws and regulations!
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  #23  
Old 09-24-2010, 12:03 PM
pieinthesky pieinthesky is offline
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After several months playing with the design of my knife I have now finished the MK2

The blade is bigger (but still less than 3 inches) the action is lighter and snappier and my grinding and build have improved.

Please have a look and let me know what you think, good and bad please.

Thanks

Mike









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  #24  
Old 09-24-2010, 01:31 PM
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Want! I really, REALLY like that knife.


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  #25  
Old 12-28-2013, 05:23 PM
pieinthesky pieinthesky is offline
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Now in its third generation, lots of subtle improvements.

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  #26  
Old 12-28-2013, 05:40 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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That's really starting to look like a finished design now! You should include a picture with the knife closed to show that the spring sits at the correct level when both open and closed. Also, your logo seems washed out - possibly because the blade wasn't completely finished when the logo was applied and you had to sand over it. I usually apply the logo just before I sharpen the blade (very last step) to avoid that....


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  #27  
Old 12-28-2013, 08:59 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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That is absolutely a great knife!

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  #28  
Old 12-29-2013, 08:06 AM
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Stunning!


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  #29  
Old 01-01-2014, 08:36 AM
pieinthesky pieinthesky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
That's really starting to look like a finished design now! You should include a picture with the knife closed to show that the spring sits at the correct level when both open and closed. Also, your logo seems washed out - possibly because the blade wasn't completely finished when the logo was applied and you had to sand over it. I usually apply the logo just before I sharpen the blade (very last step) to avoid that....
Thanks Ray (and others) for your comments.

The spring does sit level open and closed though I only make it this way as it is what people expect. I would prefer to have the spring sitting low when the knife is closed as it reduces the friction and makes it easier to get a light and smooth opening action. I did the first few like this but gave up to save explaining it all the time

I am not sure what you mean about the makers mark. Its the last thing I do before final assembly and sharpening. I struggle to get a consistent etch and haven't figured out why. I am using salt water as the electrolyte so maybe I should invest in the proper stuff.

All the best and happy new year to you all.
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  #30  
Old 01-01-2014, 09:06 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I thought that maybe the spotty look of your makers mark was because you had sanded over it but now I understand that you simply have trouble getting a clean mark. That could be the chemistry, its cheap so no reason not to try something other than salt water.

However, it could also be your stencil or your process. If you are making the stencils yourself you may not be exposing them long enough or cleaning them well enough after they are finished. Assuming that your etcher is actually working as it should maybe your process isn't quite right. For instance, I do 3 seconds on the stencil, 2 seconds off every 5 seconds for 20 seconds on both AC and DC. That gives the gasses a chance to dissipate and enough time overall to get a good burn. A beautiful knife like that should have an equally good looking etch on the logo...


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