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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#16
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get some syringes like I describe in post #3 in this thread. Then. you will have exact measurements and no waste and no real mess. You shouldn't need the release agent, I always throw it away. Your blade should be covered by blue masking tape by the time you need to use the Acraglas and the guard (if any) should already be sealed with JB Weld or solder. And, if after all that you still manage to get glue on your blade just wait until it hardens and then pop it off with a soft chisel (mine is made from brass) and then clean up with acetone ...
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#17
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You can also use acetone to slowly dissolve and dried epoxy. Just use a cotton swab and take your time. Its useful on something like an etched finish where and slip of a soft chisel will show up. Or wipe it up in .5 seconds before it dries
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#18
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Guys,
I have used Acraglas Gel for the past 10 yrs. with no fault. I always lay out the resin and catylst and then warm them with a hair dryer. This does 2 things; it eases the mixing, and kick starts the chemical reaction. As said before warm it, if it gets too hot throw it away and start over. If I make a hidden tang I use the regular thin Acraglas as you need it to fill the voids around the tang. __________________ Brad Johnson LTC, Ret KMG since 1991 [IMG][/IMG] http://bradjohnsonknives.blademakers.com/ |
#19
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I weigh my acraglass. Bought a cheap scale for $15 delivered off ebay and weigh it out in grams. Usually mix too much but nothing near the 1.25 oz.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#20
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I've been using the regular Acra Glass for 15 years now with no problems. As far as the gel goes, I will not use it as most all my knives are hidden tang, and with the gel, I am never sure of getting all the air pockets out. In the last few years I have even started using the thinner mixed in to the cup. My standard mix is 1 tsp resin, 1/4 tsp hardner, and 1/4 tsp thinner. The reason I do this is because one day a few years back I mix some up without the thinner, glued it up and let it set a couple days, customer came in and had a change of heart on the handle material, so I cut the handle off and discovered that after the handle was clamped up and allowed to completely harden, all those tiny little air bubbles you spend four minutes mixing in do eventually collect somewhere in the tang pocket. To me that's a weak spot I won't tolerate. So, by adding the thinner, I can actually watch all those little bubbles surface and disapate before I pour the mix down the hole. That thinner mix also allows the epoxy to fill and penetrate every open pore there is and yes, it takes a slight bit longer to come to full hardness( and is every bit as strong), but I allow two days on each knife anyway. This is just my way I do this, and my thoughts on the Acra Glass. Hope this helps, Wes
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#21
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Great thread! The syringe idea sounds ideal. I'll give it a try even though it sounds like a PITA to get the hardener into a syringe.
-The 4-1 mix is by volume, not weight! -Vinegar can also be used to remove excess acraglass. I use it with paper towels mainly to clean my hands when I'm done. -Mixed acraglass can be stored in a freezer and used later if it hasn't set yet. I haven't tried this myself though. -Brownell's book "Gunsmithing Kinks" or "Gunsmith Kinks" (volume 1) is loaded with excellent tips for using acraglass. It is also one of the best gunsmithing books I've ever read. - John |
#22
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That's interesting since the large bottle weighs exactly 4x the small bottle. Can be done either way.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#23
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Getting the hardener into the syringe is not a problem, just stick the syringe into the goop and suck it up. It's a liquid about the same density as the epoxy part ...
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#24
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Sorry Ray, I meant getting the resin part into the syringe.
Here's a link to a discussion about the volume/weight controversy. Do what you want. http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?...AcraGlas-by-wt I'm getting pretty fed up with this site. Seems most of the knifemakers here are either too good to respond to questions or too condescending and critical. Knifemaking isn't magic or rocket science and its not worth dealing with the egos here. I was just trying to be helpful with my response. I have no dog in this fight. I'll stick to the Jerzeedevil where people aren't so full of themselves. - John |
#25
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The glue wars have been going on for years. I have been useing Acra Glas for about 15 years now and have never lost a handle. maybe I'm old school but, I use what works for me. With the syringe measureing is easy and the stuff works. I tried the jel once and just didn't like it. Can't say there's anything wrong with it just wasn't what I was used too.
Cut one, if you found Chucks answer condesending did you really want an answer? He told you how he mixed it. If that doesn't work for you fine. There are some excellent makers here. Also some great advice. Not all people give advice with a spoon full of sugar. |
#26
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John, i stand corrected. I went back and pulled out the instructions again. It does say to use volume rather than weight.
Did not intend to put you down, just was the way it made sense to me. All you had to do was mention that was the way the instructions said to do it and I would have agreed. Take care __________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
#27
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Quote:
Chuck, It's all good. I'll try to be more clear and less "sensitive" in the future. - John |
#28
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Now i am not one to argue with a mfg on instructions. I did however go back and measure out 1oz of acraglass resin and 1/4 ounce of hardener by volume as recommended by the mfg. Then i weigjed the 2. One ounce weighs 437gns.and the 1/4 ounce by volume weighed 107gns. That is a 2 gn difference measuring by volume over weight.or a .08 discrepency. That can be accounted for in the sight difference in measuring. What does this mean? You decide.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. Last edited by Woodchuck Forge; 05-23-2013 at 04:34 PM. |
#29
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The instructions do say to mix in a 4:1 ratio by volume. The reason they say that is because 1) it's easy to do 2) and it gives the proper mix for the reaction they designed the chemistry for.
That doesn't mean you can't mix by weight. What it does mean is that if you mix by weight you're going to be mixing some really odd numbers that are not going to be easy to get using a sticky liquid if you intend to get the proper mix for the reaction AcraGlas is designed for. So, it's possible but it will be a royal PITA to get it done correctly. True, you can estimate and round off and get it close and the glue will set up but it might set faster or slower or not quite as tough or hard, etc. but it will set. If you don't mind that then go for it but the syringes are quick, easy, clean, re-useable and accurate. My knives may not be the best in the world but they are the best I can make and I don't cut corners when I don't have to. If you think about it, you probably won't want to cut corners on your knives either - especially not one that is this easy to do the right way ... |
#30
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Sorry op for this going off on a tangent. Use and measure the acraglass per mfg instructions and you shouldn't go wrong.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. |
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art, back, blade, brass, digital, easy, epoxy, fixed blade, full tang, hand, handle, how to, kit, knife, knife handle, knives, make, package, plastic, post, resin, store, supply, tang, wax |
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