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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Stock Removal and full tang end caps?
So I think I am searching for the wrong wording or words so I figure I would post a question here.
I like the idea of having a knife that is a full stick tang with a end camp that will tighten and keep handle and guards tight, like a take down knife, or using a corby bolt at the end and grind it off when shaping. This would let me not use pins in the handle and keep it clean looking and have the retention at the end cap. I am trying to find all the pieces and parts so I can try forging but until then. What are some good ways and parts for the end cap bolts that I could do this method with a stock removal blade? Would it be possible to use JB Weld and some how weld it on to the end of the stick? I don't know how to weld for real so I hope JB weld would work. Thanks, Brian |
#2
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I would braze it! Just wrap a wrag around the blade if its after heat treat so to much heat doesn't transfer through tang.
You can also round and thread the tang. |
#3
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I actually don't know what brazing is, so I will have to look into that. I don't know why rounding the tang and then threading it didn't occur to me. Now that makes me feel like I wasn't thinking?
How hard do you think it would be to thread the tang and make an end cap would be? |
#4
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its not all that hard as long as the rounded bit at the end isnt all you need in the proper size die (most hardwear stores will have them) and a good amount of lubricant go slow with the die and as long as its not heat treated it should easily cut nice threads in the end of the tang. as for the end cap that depends on what you want to do.
cheers mate |
#5
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Both methods - thread cutting/tapping or brazing - are good skills for any knifemaker to learn to do well. Brazing would probably be the quicker less expensive learned skill. Cutting threads is a good bit more delicate, plus taps, dies and necessary support tools can get expensive fast (and they break easily until you learn how).
Either route, stick with good common thread/rod size so that you can easily find replacement materials that will fit. 8-32, 10-24, etc. are pretty standard. Use the largest you can still pass through your guard slot (important for take-down models) or learn to do the operation after the guard is permanently installed. With either approach, read up and practice a lot on scrap materials until you are confident......don't screw up a knife blade you have worked hard to get right. Hard to beat hands on instruction from someone proficient, get it if you can. If you can't find a knifemaker close by, either can be learned in most machine shops or welding/fabrication shops. You can probably trade after-hour lessons for a knife if you address the prospect right. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
blade, common, dies, forging, full tang, guard, guards, handle, heat treat, how to, instruction, knife, knifemaker, materials, pins, post, retention, rod, stock removal, tang, tools, weld, wrap |
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