How does this sound?

[Andrew Garrett]

I was just reading over Bob Engath's clay application method, and while I don't have a forge big enough to make a sword, I thought I might go for a tanto with a traditional Japanese bend accomplished in the quench.

My plan:

Forged and annealed 1095, flat ground 2/3 of the way up to the spine. Straight spine.

Satanite applied as Bob describes, but with a layer of clay covering the spine for a bit more curve (since a tanto is much shorter than a sword)

Wire wrap the clay as he describes and brine quench at around 100*-120*.

I'm hoping to get a nice hamon and an even bend.

Your thoughts on my chances of success?

[AcridSaint]

Hey Andy, I don't want to step on Bob's toes here, but I've tried many times to apply clay as he described and it's very difficult for me. I asked Scott Slobodian, who knew Bob very well, and he basically said he'd tried for a very long time to get Bob's technique down and, as far as he was concerned, it was just something that Bob was able to do with his specific spatchula, clay and experience.

Anyways, what I was told to do is apply the satanite with a brush or craft stick, smooth out all of the cracks with a bit of wet satanite after it dries, if you like. You can add ashi lines with your stick as well, or you can use a bamboo skewer and roll the clay for your lines. I've done a couple with the craft sticks with moderate success and I watched a very nice tanto treated with this technique.

[Ed Caffrey]

My recommendation is to do it with something OTHER than 1095. 1080 or better yet, 1065 will give you a much higher chance of success to achieve a nice hamon.