MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-23-2012, 11:24 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 75
Scandi grind help and my first knife completed

Hi guys,

First off, I want to thank everyone on this site because being a lurker for a while I have learned much from everyone. But this may be my problem, the more i read the more im getting confused as I think im getting information overload.

So my question is how do you get the grind line for a Scandi grind to go further up the blade without thinning the blade edge? As you can see in the pictures of my first knife the grind is very small. And honestly it seems that this isnt a Scandi grind at all but after polishing it up it seemed to round off and become convex.

Do you have to keep changing the angle to have the grind line "ride" up the blade?

Thanks for all of your help and sorry for the rambling. Brevity is the soul of wit of which I dont have. Please criticize my first knife so I can become better. The file work on the spine isnt straight I know. Thanks everyone

I did the stock removal process out of 1/8" O1 tool steel and heat treated and tempered my self in a crude forge and oven. The handle is olive drab Micarta, which I kind of burned on the belt sander and hand sanding. Brass pins and Brass thong tubing. Let me know if the pictures do not upload.











Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-23-2012, 11:56 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
Overall, a pretty fair first effort. Welcome aboard Clive!

Now for the criticism. You would be better off with a simple steel like 1080 rather than O1 if you are heat treating in a simple forge. O1 costs a good bit more and is a better steel but the heat treat requirement for O1 is more demanding than can be accomplished in a simple forge. In other words, you're spending money but not getting anything for it.

Learn to make a knife first, then worry about embellishment, i.e., put the file work aside until you master the heat treatment.

You guessed correctly - to raise the grind the angle must change. This is an excellent example of why free hand grinding is a more desirable skill than learning to use fixtures.

The handle looks OK but remember to use the knife hard to find out if it really works. A few blisters on your hand will tell you what changes to make to your handle design (if any are needed) ....


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-24-2012, 09:28 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 75
Thanks so much Ray for the advice. BTW, I sent you a PM as per my posting problems. Please disregard. It's obviously fixed. I had technical issues yesterday so I may have posted twice. Again thanks for the advice.

Yea, like all youngens I tend to bite off more than I can chew and jump way ahead. I only did the file work because the handle I made just didnt work for me so I needed something for my thumb to grip. I used a piece of scrap steel with a jig and realized that it wasnt for me so this was my attempt at "free hand" grinding. Also, for some stupid reason, after HT, I draw filed the blade and scratch the heck out of it as you can see. I only had 600g paper so that's all i hand sanded it to.

The steel is from Starret and they give great instructions on how to HT, quench and temper. I HT it until it was non magnetic and then oil quenched. Threw it in the oven at 425 for an hour. Ill let you know when it breaks in the bush, lol. Thanks again Ray.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-24-2012, 10:35 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 75
Ray,

Attached is the crude forge I was talking about. It has waaaayyy too much air escaping. I have propane tank hooked up to it but I was wondering if I should add a blower of some sort and some firebrick. What do you think? Is this hot enough to do 1080 or 1095, even O1?

On an unrelated question, steel that I get from Starret, do I have to normalize it before working on it? Or am I not getting the concept of normalizing? Thanks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image (1).jpg (239.9 KB, 12 views)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-24-2012, 11:26 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
As for Starrett providing great HT instructions, they surely do. But, knowing what to do and being able to do it aren't the same thing. Nowhere in those instructions does it say to heat O1 to non-mag and quench. That overlooks the part about soaking X minutes per inch of thickness - what that means to us is you must hold a specific temperature for an extended length of time. That's something your forge cannot do and that means O1 isn't the best choice for your situation.

No, adding a blower isn't what you need. What you need is a forge rather than a pile of bricks. BTW, maybe I'm wrong but some of those bricks appear to be ordinary red clay garden bricks. If that's correct and if you ever do succeed in getting them hot they can explode if conditions are right. Don't use that type of brick - fire brick only!

Look at my website (and others), there's tons of info on building small, cheap forges there. A big coffee can and $10 worth of ceramic wool and you're most of the way there. I have examples of building small forge bodies, venturi burners, wooden gate valves, and even building your own blower if you want to. I have a tiny forge mounted on a board complete with battery powered blower and it reaches welding temps! So, go build a forge and get some 1080 and a lot of your troubles will go away ....


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-24-2012, 11:46 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 75
haha, as always Ray thank for the advice. The bad thing is is that I know the process wasnt correct but I really wanted to get my knife done. I need to learn patience before grinding or anything else first. I have some firebrick on the way and also some 1080 and 1095 (i had ordered it a week ago). but you are right it is essentially a pile of bricks. I worked at a brick yard for a while and thus have hundreds of them and Chicago brick.

I appreciate the info Ray and Ima go check your site. God bless.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1095, angle, blade, brass, building, design, edge, file, file work, fire, forge, grinding, hand, handle, hot, jig, knife, make, micarta, pins, simple, steel, stock removal, temper


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Maple Skinner Scandi Grind Frankallen The Newbies Arena 9 07-19-2015 02:43 PM
"Nordic Grind" Scandi-Bushcraft J. Neilson Knives For Sale - Custom 4 11-09-2010 10:04 PM
My version of a Scandi(ish) knife Maxx The Display Case 3 04-29-2006 09:24 AM
scandi/sabre grind?????? Dwane Oliver The Newbies Arena 3 01-17-2006 04:46 AM
Scandi, hollow grind PBKnives Knives For Sale - Custom 0 07-22-2005 05:02 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:19 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved