Intergral Knife Questions

[robertv6]

I made this post on another forum, but wanted to post it here to get all the input i can.

One, how does get the bolster perfectly round? I could file the sides and make it octagonal, but i like round.
Two, kinda the same thing, how does one get the handle perfectly round where it joins the bolster? My guess is a ton of hand sanding to bring it down to the same plane. Its the transitions that kinda have me stumped.
I do not have a milling machine or a lathe. If i had a lathe, i could chuck it up and that would solve the round bolster problem, but i do most everything by hand with files and sandpaper. The handle you see in the picture is just practice one. A piece of pine 2x4. I am trying a different approach to shaping them. I want a handle that is more sculpted, not ......kinda flat on the sides like ive normally done. Id like to get it thin at the bolster, then swelling into my palm, and finally contoured in the back for my little pinkie. Needless to say, i laid the practice handle piece on the tang to give you a general idea of the look of the knife im aiming for....this practice one is over sized. The actual one will be smaller and a bit thinner.

ok, enough rambling, thanks in advance for you input guys.

Thanks

? Last Edit: February 18, 2007, 05:32:58 PM by Robertv6 ? Logged

[Ed Caffrey]

Hi Robert!

I do most of that work on the belt grinder. One of the tricks I use is to split the 2" belts down to 1" or less when I get to 220 grit and finer. Using the photos you posted as a guide to where your at now, here's what I would do:

Prep the handle and get it glued on. Once the epoxy is cured, I would start with a fresh 50 grit belt, then jump to a split 200, then 400, and finally 600 or 800. I would then accomplish the rest of the finish work by hand. With a little practice it pretty easy to direct the pressure on the grinder so that it won't "wash out" the softer (in this case the handle) material.

The same technique applies to both the bolster area and the handle. Getting "perfectly" round isn't a huge concern to me. Better to have a slight oblong from top to bottom so that the knife can be "indexed" without having to look or guess where the cutting edge might be. If your heart set on a round bolster area, that is fairly easy to achieve by the techniques I outlined above.

Make sure when you get it done that you post some pics!

[robertv6]

thanks ed,

ill try what you say about splitting the belts. I guess im going to go for the octagonal bolster. I cant figure out any way to get it perfectly round, so thats the next best thing. maybe one day ill pick up a used lathe. Ill post some pics when its done.

Again thanks

Robert

[DiamondG Knives]

Robert,
This was a bit diffrent, but on a santuko intigral I did last summer, I accidently ground the tang too thin. I cut it off flush at the bolster, and drilled and tapped a 1/4 all thread rod into the bolster area. I then JB welded this in place. Once set, I chucked the whole thing up in a hand drill and test spun. it wasnt too off center, and ran fairlt smooth. I took this to the running belt grinder, and SLOWLY moved the spinning bolster into the belt, I got a very nice round bolster with a good finish!

A must do here is to use a vari speed drill, and be sure the tang and the plane of the blade is almost perfectly in line, or it simply wont work due to the wobble.

PLEASE dont try this without first doing some "set up practice runs" It is not the prefred way, and could cause injury if not paying attention. Dont want to suggest anything that gets someone hurt.

Just clicked when you posed your question.

PS
I dont like this style construction, although it was very solid, I kept it for personal use, and did not sell it.


God Bless
MIke

[AwP]

If you forge it from round stock and are careful not to hit the bolster, it will remain round.