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#1
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DIY Heat Treat Oven questions
Making heat treat oven. heres a link to the the oven I'm modeling mine after.
http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/electric-forge.html Mine too will be a 120v model. I am wonder if the controller he uses will be fine or if I should. Upgrade to a "ramp soak" model. Not sure what the differences are. I will mostly be using O1 but would like some versatility A side note I would like to use this for hardening and tempering Thank you for your time Chris Last edited by squigly1965; 06-02-2016 at 06:09 PM. |
#2
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I have used the ramp feature but only rarely. That allows you to reach a given temperature at a specified speed such as taking 1200F at 200 degrees per hour. Yes, that means it would take 6 hours to reach 1200F but some processes require that sort of thing. Mostly, I don't find ramping to be very useful to me unless I'm trying to anneal something in which case the process is reversed and the temperature drops at a given rate over a period of hours.
What you do want is a controller that allows for more than one programmable step. That means you want to be able to program it to, say, rise to 1200F and hold for 5 minutes and then proceed to 1850F and hold for 30 minutes....things like that. Most of the controllers that can do that are ramping controllers and you simply program them to ramp at their maximum speed. So, that means you want a controller than can handle multiple program steps. It doesn't have to be a ramping controller but most likely that's what you will find ... |
#3
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Changed the title of this thread so i could easier keep track of where the questions were I asked
Well i went with the controller from Auberins with Ramp/Soak. I am just waiting on the mortar and Itc-100 to really start this build but wanted to get started on the enclosure. Questions i have are: question 1 is so i can start with the oven Enclosure dimensions 1. I have some 1" Ceramic wool should i Use it between the outer sheetmetal skin and the firebricks. Have seen some used it some didn't. some didn't even use a skin. I am a little worried about the fire bricks shifting if i need to move. the wool being more like a cushion that is. 2. Does the heatsink for the SSR need to protrude from the Control Box. If not, should I have a fan or put slots in the control box for ventilation 3. is 3600watts per CUFT a decent amount of power or should i re think my interior dimensions. have another configuration that gives 4300 watts per CUFT but i lose 2.5" of depth and thank you for your time as always Last edited by squigly1965; 06-02-2016 at 06:41 PM. |
#4
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1. I've never personally seen an oven with wool AND brick but I don't see any harm in using it if you want to. If you used the thick soft fire brick that most ovens use then the brick is going to crack no matter what you do.
2. My Paragon has vents but no fan and the heat sink is not visible. 3. don't know about the watts per cubic foot but either will work. The difference is how fast the oven will heat up and that will be related to how good your insulation is. However, if your insulation is too massive then it will heat slower anyway ... |
#5
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i'm using the 2.5" soft k23 bricks
thats why the 2.5" depth lost dimensions i'm looking at are 9" wide by 6.5" high by 18" deep or 9" wide by 6.5" high by 15.5" deep hoping coating the inside with ITC 100 will help with heating up quicker Last edited by squigly1965; 06-02-2016 at 07:24 PM. |
#6
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No one I know has used ITC-100 in an electric oven so let us know how that goes. Do be careful with the ITC and don't let it get onto the heating coils. Make sure to vacuum out all the brick dust you can before you fire the oven the first time. If you get a small blob of anything on the coil it can over heat at that spot and melt itself . Once you have heated the coil past 1000F don't try to stretch or re-position it any more as it will be brittle ...
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#7
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planning on putting the ITC on before i put the coils in.
I read somewhere can't find it(read so many write-ups on ovens) someone had used it. Figured it reflects the heat in a gas forge so why not an electric oven. though i do wonder if it will overheat the coils. them being in grooves and all. perhaps i shouldn't coat the grooves |
#8
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I'd say definitely don't coat the grooves ...
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#9
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wel my ITC 100 showed up today.
perhaps i will email the company and see what their take is on napping it to the interior of the oven Still waiting on the mortar. took them a week to ship it won't be using them as a supplier thats for sure |
#10
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__________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada |
#11
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nice looking oven Rob
is it 240v or 120v i like the extruded metal for ventilation of control panel. very clean looking. you set a high bar with that one Last edited by squigly1965; 06-03-2016 at 06:55 PM. |
#12
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It's 110V , it was an old dial temp controller , converted it to digital , gave it a new paint job , works excellent , holds temp to within a degree
__________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada |
#13
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Squig,
I do the soak periods manually so nothing fancy as far as temperature controllers go. I am always nearby when the heat is on. Email me at knives@dcknives.com if you have any issues. I can help. Dan __________________ "Don't believe everything you know." -- bumper sticker |
#14
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If you go with the perforated cover which will let everything breath nicely , then attach your SSR to it , will help in keeping it cool as they do heat up a bit, do not attach it to the wall on the inside that is against the oven wall for obvious reasons....
__________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada Last edited by BCROB; 06-09-2016 at 08:41 AM. |
Tags |
art, build, case, coat, degrees, digital, diy, fire, first time, forge, handle, heat, heat treat, k23, knives, make, making, metal, paint, small |
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