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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Grinding advise needed
I noticed when I grind on coarse belt (40-120) my flat grind is pretty good and uniform.
When I grind on 220 and up grid belt I tend to create a "vertical belt edge mark" 2" from ricasso. I am not spending any more time grinding at this spot and trying to move as smooth as possble to avoid this vertical marks. When I am trying to remove this 2" mark I end up creating more of this marks. I am considering to switch to file drawing and hand sanding after 220 grid. It gives me much better results. Unfortunately it also takes it much longer. Any useful advise, tricks to fix this, please? Thanks, Alex |
#2
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Some things that come to mind:
Check to see if your platen is flat and adjusted properly in relation to the belt ( i.e. even pressure across the face of the belt). Make sure you are applying even pressure to the blade. What has worked for me is to start with very a very, very light, even touch near the plunge and move into the plunge; when I'm established there I try to apply a heavier even pressure and grind to the tip. Lighter weight belts will also be more prone to make marks from any gunk on the platen or back of the belt. Regards, Greg |
#3
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I find that if I am trying to very careful about my plunge cut, I tend to put just that little bit of extra pressure on the opposite side of the belt, this gives me the 2" line. The only solution is practice. I also usually hand sand after 220 any ways just because I find I have to go back to 220 to get a clean mirror polish, there is always a couple of 220 scratches that hide wwhen using the higher grits.
Hope that helps. Steve __________________ Stephen Vanderkolff Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/ Thanks |
#4
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Good info on this over in the "Ed Caffrey's Workshop" forum.
Try to keep your bevel grinding 'fluid'. Translation: Keep the bade moving in strokes down the length of the edge. Start at the plunge cut and stroke towards the tip. Baby steps at first. Mind the amount of pressure you use until you get comfortable with it. Be sure to overlap the edge of the belt so your plunge cut gets the rounded effect to the degree that you want it to. Good luck. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#5
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A common problem that has been dubbed "the dreaded 2inch mark" Now that you are aware of it, pay attention and apply less pressure to that side as you cut in your plunge.
__________________ "Many are chosen, but few are Pict" "The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo |
#6
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Just one more idea to go with the others:
Keep your thumb on the blade over the platen at all times. AND this is the only place you apply pressure. If the hand holding the knife pushes away from you or pulls towards you, you have problems. Or if you have a hand on each side of the platen you will create marks. One hand is used to hold the tang and pull it across. On the other hand, the index finger goes under the spine (to hold it up) and the thumb stays opposite the platen and provides pressure. Hope that helps! Steve |
#7
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Steve,
I am confused. Can you please make a photo? BTW I am using a tool rest with blade spine resting on it and using push stick which I try to keep positioned at the center of the belt. |
#8
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If you're using a rest it's a similar idea: Keep the push stick centered over the platen.
Also, be very careful when getting the blade in contact with the belt. Set it on there lightly and push it inplace with the stick. If you're getting the 2" mark, you must be pulling back on the tang a bit. Keep practicing - use wood. Steve PS Be very careful using a rest. Can be dangerous. |
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