The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
11-18-2015, 06:41 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Eastern Kansas
Posts: 45
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Normalizing
Is normalizing necessary for stock removeal. It seems to me that if you already have a piece of steel that has been annealed, it would not need to be normalized for stock removal . However I may be missing some thing, I haven't found anywhere that says it only required if it has been forge .
Sam
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11-18-2015, 08:46 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
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Usually not necessary but it never hurts to do it. It is possible that if you grind your bevels before HT that you can induce stress in the steel which can lead to warping during HT and normalizing should correct for that. But, if the steel was properly annealed and if your grinds are evenly done then none of that should happen ....
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11-18-2015, 10:10 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Eastern Kansas
Posts: 45
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OK thanks Ray that is what I was wanting to know
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11-19-2015, 05:05 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Acworth, GA and/or Hanging Dog, NC
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I'm with Ray on this. However, I'd add that if you are grinding thin blades such as chef's knives and/or fillet knives, normalizing is suggested to reduce warping potential. With these thin blades even the slightest diff in grinds from side to side will induce warp potential (I know this not because I read a lot).
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Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
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C Rex Custom Knives
Blade Show Table 6-H
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11-19-2015, 05:52 AM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 484
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Depending on the condition of the steel when you got it, you may only need a stress relief heat. That requires a heat soak of 1200? to 1250? for an hour or so. If you do actual normalizing, you may need to follow with heat cycling to reduce grain size afterwards, depending on the degree of heat used to normalize. The two processes are different. I would suggest you harden and break a piece of the scrap from the same steel, and check grain size. If it is good, then you should only need a stress relief. If a 10XX steel, and you have no oven, just give it a few low heats that barely show red beginning and let cool, or just go ahead with the HT. Minor warping can be corrected in the temper phase.
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Tags
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bee, beginning, blades, chef's, fillet, forge, grind, grinding, harden, heat, knives, relief, show, steel, stock removal, temper, warping |
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