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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#16
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Depends on where you get it and how much chance you're willing to take. The HT on it is about the same as 1084 so that's good. But, it is pretty much only available in thick bars which are often curved and not annealed. That's because nearly all of it is recycled leaf spring stock. So, if you will build a forge then you'll be able to straighten in and anneal it (soften it) to make it easier to deal with. But, as it's former life was a truck spring there may be stress fractures in it which isn't too much of an issue if you are forging your blades but can be a disaster for stock removal.
If there was a better/cheaper/smarter way than using 1084 we would have already told you about it because we'd be using it too ... |
#17
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It is 1/4 inch thick, but im ok with that. Looks brand new tho http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/xj518.htm?CartID=4 |
#18
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It does look brand new but I imagine that they simply forged it out and ground it flat. Either way, there it is so go for it. Do yourself a huge favor though and make a 4" hunter instead of the giant bowie/fighter that's probably dancing around in your head. You can make several of them from that bar of steel and right now repetition is what you need...
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#19
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#20
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#21
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Go for the drop point then. Tanto's are very difficult if you do them right. I'm glad your heart isn't set on a Mega Zombie Killer as a first knife. If you plan to have any grind line on the blade then you'll be better off with a 4" blade. Grind line problems magnify quickly with every inch you add to the blade.....
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#22
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#23
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Damon the problem with them is most of there steel is out of stock most of the time, If i go to order steel i want to order from a company that knows how to manage stock and KEEP things in stock. No Offense intended lol |
#24
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QUOTE: Guide is first i cant freehand worth a ####
That's what practice is for.... |
#25
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seems the easy to work with 1084 is in stock....
what steels are you wanting other than 5160 and to make your own? |
#26
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out... 5160
in stock.... well about everything else. 1084, 1095, 52100, W2, O1, L6, A2, D2 (but god only knows why youd want to torture yourself by ordering that stuff), 154 cm, 440c, s35vn, s30v, 15N20, ABE-L, |
#27
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Both are kick ass steel from what i have read, i could be wrong here because its others opinions, but its what i have read none the less. Last edited by VanceHanna; 08-30-2015 at 02:30 AM. |
#28
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Nah made a guide out of a block of wood, just need a bolt,washers and a nut and ill be able to pick and choose my angles. My hands are not steady because of arthritis so no matter how much i practice my hands will still shake But with the block guide i can do ok. |
#29
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Aldo (NJ Steel Baron) runs out of steel because he sells a lot to knifemakers.......that ought to tell you something.
Learn to grind freehand and you will never need a jig or have to waste time rigging/setting one up. (almost all the more mature knifemakers I know have and struggle with arthritis - my self included - we just grit and go.....and try not to hit those knotted knuckles on a belt. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#30
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If I might suggest forgoing the 5160 and getting some L-6 then. Most guys that use 5160 are forging the stuff and your not doing that, I don't think Aldo keeps any 5160 in the sizes you want because of that. L-6 is easy to heat treat, holds an edge better and is even more forgiving than 5160.
The problem with a lot of suppliers is the state the steel is shipped in. I do get some steel from another supplier. Their stuff isn't suitable for a stock removal guy because it comes normalized but not annealed. Drilling through the stuff is a crap shoot. This isn't a problem for the guy who's forging, but for a stock removal guy it means you need to anneal before working. If you can't do that your stuck with having to buy expensive carbide bits. |
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