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  #1  
Old 05-04-2005, 07:15 PM
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Buildin' a Randall knife

Nope,
This isn't going to be what ya'll think. I am not going to go into all of the Randall shop procedures and steps needed and used to "build" a Randall. I'm thinkin' more along the lines of all of us putting one together, right here on this forum. We'll do this in stages, or "steps", if you will. Sound like fun? Probably not, but I am going to be on the road for a couple of days, so it'll give me something to look forward to when I get back. If nobody responds, I'll just have to get over it!
First step: and this goes along with Marc's thread: BLADE. I want to know your preference for blade material, shape, and length. For the purpose of this 1st attempt, let's assemble a "hunting" knife. We can assemble a "camp" knife, "survival" knife and a "fighting" knife in later threads.
I really want to hear from "ALL" members, moderators, future members, and maybe even a few "lurkers". Let me know, and don't mind telling me why, you prefer what you do. The second step will follow in another thread. I going to do this in: say..6 stages or steps. Now here is the "fun" part. I am going to order this Randall made up from the shop on my next available order date, probably July or August of "THIS YEAR"!! That's right: A custom-made-to-order Randall Made knife in 60-90 days!!
There are "always" rules, so here goes some. Rule #1: The finished knife cannot have an ivory handle, as I don't have any ivory slots open for several years. The knife must be something that Randall will, indeed make! No real "oddballs", please?!? Let's say shop-supplied handle material and collateral equipment...O.K.? I realize we aren't even to the handle stage yet (that's a hint that the handle might be one of the "stages" of this project), but I am just trying to establish the ground rules. O.K. :......Now go on and start explaining, defending, and suggesting your ideas.
If ya'll aren't sure if Randall does a certain something and a certain model, what better time to pipe up and ...."ASK" than right now! I don't know what forum rules or regulations are implemented here, but I would like to offer this finished knife to the members that had a hand in building it. Moderators: Get to work and come up with something.. (God, it's nice to put it off on someone else). Let's hear from ya', Best, Captain Chris Stanaback


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Old 05-04-2005, 08:55 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks Captain Chris for coming up with this brilliant and generous idea!

Well folks, the challenge is upon us to "build" a drop dead beauty of a Randall hunting knife.

Let's all put on our thinking caps, and maybe our butt caps too...

Moosehead


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  #3  
Old 05-04-2005, 08:56 PM
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Now this ought to be interesting since beauty is in the eye of the beholder and functionality is a very personal preference. May we assume that the knife will function as a light general purpose knife as well as a skinner? Rhetorical question. Thinking out loud. With the general purpose in mind of going on a hunting trip with one knife and possible uses ranging from making fire sticks to cleaning fish or dressing a deer, I'm thinking model #3, #4 or #25 style with a 5" carbon blade. I've never owned these three and I don't hunt so this is a bit of a stretch but I'm willing to learn something here.

Seussbrother :confused:

Last edited by Seussbrother; 05-04-2005 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:24 PM
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First thing I'd like to say is, 0-1! In fact, it may be the only steel Randall offers, not sure.


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  #5  
Old 05-04-2005, 09:28 PM
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Seuss,
Nope: A straight "hunter". No need to think multi-purpose here. That, as they say, is "another thread". (Who, exactly are "they", anyway?). No need to concern yourself with camping chores or fileting or scaling fish: That will be another time. This Randall is going to be a hunting knife. Everyone put on their thinking caps.
Personally: The majority of my hunting knives are stainless. Most of my Randalls are stainless, but..of course, I'm a Florida boy and stainless rules down here. Plus: I now how to sharpen a knife and I don't let it get too dull before I touch it up. Because of all of the above, I prefer stainless. Or course...this isn't about me. It is going to be a "team effort".
Moose: I don't know about generous. I don't plan on donating this knife, but I thought that you guys could figure out a way for everyone to get a shot at the knife and a donation could be made to this forum, or something like that. ( It's nice not to have the tighten and loosen the nuts and bolts of the forum...rather, just come up with work for you other guys). And speaking of guys: Why haven't we heard from any women on here? What's up with that? But, I digress: Back to the blade....input folks: Type of metal, length of blade, sharpened top bevel or not?? All the questions..... Best, Captain Chris Stanaback


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  #6  
Old 05-04-2005, 09:37 PM
Seussbrother Seussbrother is offline
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Robert, I like your "dirty bird"!

I don't want to stray here but Randall uses a .01 high carbon steel and I think they use 3-4 different stainless steels although a buyer can't specify which stainless they get when ordering a knife. Maybe someone will share those types with us.

Seussbrother
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2005, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
First step: and this goes along with Marc's thread: BLADE. I want to know your preference for blade material, shape, and length. For the purpose of this 1st attempt, let's assemble a "hunting" knife.
Okay folks, here goes my preferences for Step #1...

Firstly, I'm partial to stainless steel, especially for a user. The blade is much more resistant to corrosion, staining, and especially the adverse effects of good old H2O. Also, I don't subscribe to the theory that a carbon blade holds a better edge, since those experienced with stainless Randalls have not to knowledge reported any significant problems in this regard.

Secondly, I would like a blade shaped like the model #27, "Trailblazer". At five and three quarter inches long, I feel this knife could tackle any sized game. Yet with the narrow point, I believe it could still be effective on smaller fish, birds or rabbits. ("Bugs". watch out!) I would prefer the top bevel to be sharpened a couple of inches from the tip. Aesthetically, I really like the look of the up-swept curve.

How's that for a start? :confused:

David


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Old 05-04-2005, 09:55 PM
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Cap, that helps. I thought a "hunter" was a knife you take hunting with you but, then I'm from Kentucky. Wasn't thinking just cleaning game and skinning.

.01 carbon steel, 5" blade, thumb notches and sharpened bevel.

Seussbrother
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2005, 10:09 PM
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Seuss-N'-Moose,
(Hey: That rhymes), 1st of all, David: You will be extremely limited in a Trailblazer choice, although, if that's what the majority wants....That's what we'll make. The limitatons are as follows: No "top-bevel" sharpening option on a model #27-5 3/4" blade. Only a 13 spacer handle, with stag, or a 3-piece, model #25-style, handle are available. Folks wanting wooden or stag "only" handles will be left out, not to mention all leather or micarta, or.....well: you get the idea.
Allan: A 5" blade is a good choice, as is a 5 3/4: blade, but most come in 1/4" stock and may "limit" their effectiveness on smaller game. 4" thru 5" blades also come in 1/4" stock, but many 3/16" stock models are "still in the running". See....and you guys thought this was going to be easy!!
I don't want anyone to get the impression that I am condeming any choices, I just want to try and show the pros and cons of all, or at least a few more models. Just about every "hunting" model in the catalog can be used for a variety of game, but some are definately better at certain "specific" tasks than others. The entire purpose of this whole thread was to open up a discussion about a lot of different ideas. There are, many times, folks viewing these posts for the first time. People who may be thinking about one model or another. A topic like this one can help them to decide which Randall to obtain. More food for thought....Best, Captain Chris Stanaback


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Old 05-04-2005, 10:11 PM
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My .02

Blade Material- Stainless - don't want to have to worry about the blade in the field and since I bow hunt... rain is a good probability far from the truck... one less worry...

Length- 4 and 3/4 to 5 1/2 inches... Drop point with a more pronounced belly say a 19 grind with a 25 back... top sharp blades leave me a tad cold on a SERIOUS hunting/cleaning/skinning blade... anyone that's accidentally cut the viscera knows what I mean here... and since we are not talking a Camp Knife per se...

I would also like to see it start as a 1/4" wide piece for strength as sometimes the blade has to be called upon to split the hip or crack the ribs... The wider blade would take batoning a bit better...


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Last edited by Co_Outdoorsman; 05-04-2005 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 05-04-2005, 10:21 PM
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Scott,
God to see ya' (or "read" ya') again. Welcome "over"! You make some good points on strength, but...don't you use a model #8-4", "Trout and Bird" for the majority of your work? I use 3/16" stock knives a good deal while guiding and haven't had any problems with even splitting the sternum. Of course, I get slightly off-center and cut in one sweeping motion, being careful not to "turn" the blade while I'm going through....no problemo!! You are right, however...1/4" stock is still stronger. Again: I am just trying to get everyone to see "all" of the possibilities. There are no "rights and wrongs" in this very very un-scientific study. Good to talk to you again. It's been too long, Best, Captain Chris Stanaback


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Old 05-04-2005, 10:34 PM
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Nice "Seeing" you to, Mon Capitan...

Yeah my 8 is my love and my truest hunting partner... that's why I could never baton with her... When I said strenght I was refering to my preferred target... Wapiti AKA Elk the bones are a tad thicker and denser than white tails... Also would it not be a fantastic day when one knife was made that could be the "do all, end all" knife? Not that that will ever happen... This is a chance to make "it" the one knife? the perfect knife? well yes and no... whats the target? Elk, Elephant? chickadees? so many choices to many requirements for any "one" knife to ever compete...

My 8 really only gets the call for cleaning and skinning and my new 25 will be the "work horse" and while I talk batoning I will use my Tabor for the crunch work...
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File Type: jpg tabor hatchet #3.JPG (44.7 KB, 150 views)


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Last edited by Co_Outdoorsman; 05-04-2005 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:00 PM
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Scott,
Nice butcherin' clever. Looks like the handle is Sambar stag and one of the rosewood family, like: Brazilian rosewood, or Cocobola, or Desert oronwood?? Am I close? I have killed over 220 whitetails, but only 3 elk and 1 mule deer. They are a bit nastier to process. I killed my big bull (365 B&C) near Jimez Springs, N.M. and he went about 900 pounds!! I would have preferred a "Trailblazer" or a 6" "Trapper", but neither of those models were around at that time. I used a 6" Model #4 and a 4" "Zack" "Glades Hunter" at that time (bi-centenial, 1976).
My last hunt, at the Kieva (same place) was a cow permit hunt and it was 4 years ago. I used a "Trailblazer" and my trusty 5" Model #7, with a number 6 grind. Both did an excellent job. I surely could have done the entire job with a Trailblazer or a "Trapper". Just a little more "fuel" for the fire. Well: Off to bed. I'll post the thread for stage #2 in the morning. Best to all, Captain Chris Stanaback


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Old 05-04-2005, 11:16 PM
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Good eye... Stag and Cocobola...

Ahhh the differences of use and tools... my old hunting partner uses a 3" Shrade Sharpfinger (used to be a 4" but it's older than I and seen more elk than its had a right to...) and a chainsaw (he fills the chain oiler with heavy duty cooking oil) and only uses this one saw to butcher his elk... and he laughs at me when I pull out my "latest and greatest" knife....

Look forward to part deux... after a good nights sleep and another day of work... sigh...

why can't I be the Captain?


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Old 05-04-2005, 11:16 PM
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Red face

Great idea Cap! I'm going to give it a try. These are my thoughts for a custom Randall hunter :

Custom : should be unique and stand out from all the rest, and should reflect Randall design roots,
and incorporate modern design ideas.
Hunter: should be light, simple, easy to sharpen in the field, have a decent belly and good point.
Edge/Blade: FLAT GRIND! for lightness, quickness, versatality, low edge geometry, and sharpness.
Steel: 01 for historical accuracy and patina, ease of sharpening, and edge retention.
Blade style: Old style model 3 (less hump) / 50th Randall FLAT GROUND!
Blade length: 4" or 5"
Coil: Deeper than the standard mod.3
Tang: FULL TANG!
Handle: Presentation grade (blk/white) knarly STAG SLABS!
Guard: INTEGRATED! (tang & Stag slab at the coil are shaped as single finger guard!, handle
is continuous stag to the blade)
Spacers: None
Thong hole: None

Conclusion: The best hunters are the simplest, lightest, and sharpest hunters. Pure utility
and function meets with design elegance, in the simplest form, is what I would like
to see in a custom Randall, rather than Ivory and silver.
(and a pouch sheath would be great!) Oh Yas!


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