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Old 05-05-2021, 02:25 PM
KenH KenH is offline
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: South Baldwin Co across the bay from Mobile, AL
Posts: 70
"How to" for Canister Damascus

Hello all, As some of ya'll know I've recently got a new Coal Iron 12 ton mini-press. I'm now enjoying playing with forge welding without all the "arm 'n hammer" work I've had before.

Let's assume my canister is 1-1/4" OD with 1/8" walls. OR, I've also got plenty of 1-1/2" OD square tubing but it's only got 1/16" walls. Do you think there would be a chance that 1/16" hold together enough to set the weld set before forming too much scale? I'm running a pretty rich flame with a good bit of dragon's breath trying to keep oxygen level low inside forge - isn't that the way it's done?

I know there are a couple ways to get the "can" free from the billet, (White out, rusty inside, etc) but just how much "can" is left after all the scale formed during forging, especially if using the thin 1/16" wall cans?

With a square die I "assume" I'd press perhaps 25% on first press, then flip canister 90 and press the other side? If this is the case, should I press the full lenght of the canister on one side before flipping? OR, make one press, flip, press the other side and work my way down the canister? I'm thinking the canister would only be 4" long so we're only talking 3 presses per side to get full length (dies are 1-1/2" wide). My set of squaring dies are they're pretty small- only about 1-1/2" square max. These can be reduced by using a shim to reduce size - I think anyway.

"IF" the 1084 (1080) powder was 325 mesh (talc like), Would there be a big deal of difference between final product of using 1095 powder? Reason I ask Jantz has 1080 power in 325 mesh with 4% nickel, but the 1095 powder is plain with no nickel. They do have a nickel silver powder, which I'm not sure how it work work vs actual nickel powder. 15N20 etches pretty bright and is only 2% nickel.

I would think if making ball bearing (52100) Damascus then plain powder would be desired so the powder sections would etch dark with the bearing etching shiny?

I know I've asked several questions there, but it sure would be nice to have a "step-by-step" explanation of "how to make" canister.

Ed, and any other folks who would comment, thank you in advance.

Ken H>
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