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Old 05-24-2021, 11:50 AM
Chris Railey Chris Railey is offline
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: Waynesboro, Georgia
Posts: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyO View Post
That looks a bit better than my first attempt, Ken (unless you ground out the sides, that is).

This was a small can, 1/8" wall. I think I should have squished the sides once more before removing the can and starting to draw out. Speaking of which, I used KILZ in the can and here it is after slicing the can open around the perimeter:
Ken, when you go to draw that billet out I will try and save you some heartache I experienced the last and only time I peeled a can from a billet. When you draw the billet out go slow and keep it pretty much at welding heat the entire time. If you go too fast or it cools you will get the cracks and splits like Billy O showed above. Ed explained it to me this way (and it actually made sense to me) When you are dealing with cannister you have thousands of little forge welds to keep together while you are drawing the billet out and that needs to be done at welding heat. I tend to leave my cans on the entire time because to me, it helps keep those cracks from occurring. Most of my cans tend to have about 1/8" walls so by the time I draw that out to billet length it is easy to grind off because it is thin. Keep experimenting, I love making cannister...
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