NOTE:
This
describes how I test my knives. Anything and everything
in a knife shop is dangerous. These
tests can be extremely dangerous and I am not
suggesting that you should try it. If you are not an
experienced knifemaker, I'll tell you outright, "DON'T
DO IT". When I perform these tests, especially
the bend test, I have someone near by in case something
goes wrong. I also wear eye protection, thick gloves,
and a heavy leather apron.
A
few years ago I would make knives and give them to
friends and relatives to test. There was always that
uneasy feeling that I might not have gotten everything
right. Would the blade work properly for its intended
purpose? Would the edge hold up? Would the knife
be able to take much abuse? I was really concerned
that I might have to wait a couple of years before
any problem surfaced. And during that waiting period,
any knives I made had the potential of suffering
the same problem.
The solution was quite simple, but it took advice
from ABS Master Smith Jerry Fisk to bring the answer
to light. Test every blade after heat treating.
Use it hard. Occasionally take one to the point of
destruction. Then you'll know what your knives will
do. Listed below are some of the steps I use.
Standard
Tests
- I
have several sections of 2x4 studs with big knots
in them stored in my shop. After heat treating,
I put a temporary edge on the blade and sharpen
it to the point that it will cleanly slice though
a cigarette paper. I then hack on one of the knots,
working up and down the edge. After doing this
I inspect the edge very carefully for damage. The
way I resolve any problem with edge damage depends
on what the damage is. More information on this
follows.
- If no damage occurred,
I check to make sure
that the blade will
still shave hair from
my arm.
- For
larger
blades
like
Bowies
and
camp
knives,
I
then
chop
a
2x4
in
half
twice.
Again
I
check
for
damage
and
if
none
is
found,
make
sure
it
will
still
shave
hair.
It
would be
easy
to
cheat,
but
that
would
defeat
the
whole
purpose.
When
checking
for
shaving
sharpness
you've
got
to
test
the
area
of
the
blade
that
took
the
most
abuse.
It's
easy
to
tell.
That
area will
usually have
streaks on
it from
the chopping
and/or tiny
little pieces
of wood
on the
edge. If
everything is
okay at
this point
and the
blade is
not one
to be tested
to the
point of
failure, then
the test
is finished.
- Occasionally
I
will
take
a
blade
to
the
point
of
destruction
to
see
how
tough
it
is.
I do
this
by
clamping
1/3
of
the
blade
in
a
vise
with
the
tip
pointing
straight
down.
I
then
slip
a
3
to
4
foot
cheater
pipe
over
the
handle.
Next
I
carefully
bend
the
blade.
If
the
blade
was
differentially
heat
treated
with
a
hard
egde
and
a
spring
tempered
spine,
it
should
bend
to
90
degrees
without
breaking.
Otherwise
the
blade
should
not
fail
until
it
has
been
bent
approximately
45
degrees.
The
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