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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#121
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You're welcome but thanks to James for the excellent video. I've watched a number of his videos now. Interesting and informative & proof there's never a "best" way or some magical tool, but rather the skill of the craftsman that produces the end product.
__________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#122
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Well, that's disappointing. What compounds did you use? Were your buffs ever used for anything other than those compounds?
The only time I ever got a result similar to yours was on a block that had too much natural oil in it when it was stabilized but I never thought of walnut as oily .... |
#123
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Quote:
With raw wood I get a better finish pre buffing just going through finer grits then a fine Scotch Brite wheel, or 0000 steel wool, that's even before any oil. Here is where I got the wood and on this particular page, look down about halfway about finishing his wood. Two methods involve oil and the third involves CA glue. (??) I thought that was the point of stabilizing. (?) http://burlsource.us/stabilized-wood-info/ He even cautions about buffing and notes that "Coarser grained wood with larger pores tends to get clogged with buffing compound." Don't know, maybe just the walnut or that particular piece. K&G stabilizes for $14 a pound IIRC. That's post treatment weights. Maybe I'll send some and give it a try or even try a lighter wood with tighter grain like maple. Anyway, I looked at my little KITH this morning and the wood looks nice with the one coat of BLO. I'll get some pictures up. __________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#124
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I not an expert on the hundreds of different compounds that exist but I'm not familiar with any green compound that works with wood. As far as I know they're all for metal.
I do know that White Diamond and No Scratch Pink - both available from K&G - are intended for wood and work wonderfully on stabilized wood. Use a sewn buff with the White Diamond and a loose buff with the Pink and I would expect your results will improve dramatically. After all, one of the main reasons to use stabilized wood is so that you don't have to use any type of oil, varnish, or other finishing products on it... |
#125
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Okay it's finished. The "Quail" one of my regular B&T knives. 1/8" 0-1 steel with rounded spine, stabilized Claro Walnut scales dovetailed into brass bolster with brass pins and lanyard tube. Blade is about 4", OAL is 7 3/4". Custom leather sheath. Sorry, have no means of hollow grinding so this is a flat grind.
Now what do I do with it? And a sheath. Nope, it isn't perfect. I've yet to make a perfect knife, but it's right purdy, IMNSHO! __________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#126
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Yes, I think it is quite a nice knife too! Well done.
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#127
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I agree, that looks terrific! Now I need the 'official' picture. Take a pic of the knife and sheath against a plain background in horizontal format. Include a ruler in the picture. Then email it to me at knives@rayrogers.com
This KITH is shaping up to be one of the better ones .... |
#128
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Quote:
nice....... __________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada |
#129
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Humor coming.
As for compounds for taking down stabilized wood I suggest the diamond compounds. On Dymondwood it comes out to a shiny lustrous finish with some 5,000 diamond on a slow moving (550 rpm) cotton buff. Note Stabilized or Dymondwood which is essentially the same thing and I jump from 800 grit sandpaper to 1500 grit diamond buff to 5000 diamond. Wipe with alcohol after. You can buy pure 10,000 grit diamond dust and wet your buff too. I have used diamond to get a small scratch out of the blade after finishing and slipping with the sharpener.
Yeah, I'm the diamond crazy guy cause I do not have a buffer so I use 3" buffing wheels on a drill press at 550 rpms. I'm in Las Cruces, NM now and will be going rattlesnake hunting this weekend in the dark. Makes nice, charge high bux sheaths. Need to get some knee high boots though I think or. |
#130
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JIM you suggested the diamond stuff and I love it use it all the time....Never on stabilized wood tho usually for that its the white diamond coupond (NOT the dimond stuff your talking about)
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#131
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#132
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Here it is my official entry. It is my sincere hope that the new owner enjoys it. It's not perfect but it represents my best work and original vision. Kind of a down and dirty ready to hit the hills or the river. A knife to be used. This knife represented several new skills and techniques for me. Hollow grind, liners, and sheath making. The blade is AEB-L stainless, professionally heat treated. The handle is Blackwood with red fiber liners, brass pins and stainless lanyard tube. Hollow ground, and of my original design. Enjoy! |
#133
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KITH entry
1084 Aldo Hollow Grind B & T Blade 3.75" length 7.75 Figured Walnut & Ambouna Burl Red G10 & Copper Last edited by PoolQs; 06-30-2017 at 08:24 PM. |
#134
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WOW! Is all I can say! I just looked at the current knives in this KITH, and I'm overwhelmed. While my entry is most likely the best effort I've made up to this point, I am humbled by the other entry's. Good work fellas.
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#135
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OK, we have arrived at the end of the KITH. Before I close it though is there anyone who is very close to finishing an entry who needs a few more days? If I don't hear from anyone by Monday I'll go ahead and close it out ....
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2017, blade, blades, build, choose, easy, finish, flat, flat grind, grind, heat, heat treat, hollow grind, kit, knife, knives, kydex, leather, scale, sheath, show, simple, small, steel, trade |
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