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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts. |
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#256
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I am an expert at losing small parts. The first thing I will do is sweep the floor. If the part doesn't show up, I go over the floor with a flash light as it focuses your vision. If I still can't find it, I start the whole process over again. If that fails, I leave a piece of candy for the gremlin that lives in my shop and keeps hiding things. If that even fails, I go have a drink.
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#257
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Let me add my thanks to the list. I am a new noob and I'm just building my shop and acquiring supplies and some of the posts are right on the money. Great site with a lot of great people...Goldsmithy
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#258
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Lost part tip
Saw post on losing small parts. Take your shop vac, cut a old piece of panty hose and rubber band it to the shop vac hose. Leave it a little long so the panty hose is sucked inside the vac hose a inch or so. You can vac up the area and hopefully suck up the small piece and trap it in the hose. This works great for stone setting and finding dropped stones, small screws, bits, small parts etc. This has helped me out quite a few times. Also a panty hose stretched over the shop vac filter traps smaller particles of saw dust and makes your shop vac more efficient.
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#259
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Quote:
Good tip. Thanks. Besides losing small parts from my knives, I also lose gems and other small parts from my jewelry makng. |
#260
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Belt Edge Breaker
Great thread, here's one.
It bothers me using a bit of scrap steel to break the edge of a new belt over the corner of the wheel, it seems like such a waste of good fresh abrasive. Here's a trick i discovered recently. after i changed the cam belt in my truck. i was left with the cam belt tension roller, it's about 1" wide, made of steel and is fitted with sealed bearings and comes with a pivot bracket (handle). I took one look at it and thought that was made for bending the edge of grinding belts. Just hold it against the edge of the belt and apply pressure, I use the tool rest as a steady and it spins along and doesn't strip grit off the belt, which could be a problem if you actually want to dull the belt..... Cheers, Steve |
#261
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Use sharp abrasives!
This past while, as I fought to get just the right amt. of handle material off, while fitting the "spacer" piece, ahead of the sub-hilt, it dawned on me that the problem was not the spacer, or me, but the worn-out sanding disc that I was using. It got the material hot, it wold not cut straight and true and it was taking forever. I switched it to a sharper disc and my problems were solved. It cut faster (so I did have to take it easy on the pressure against the disc, so that I didn't cut it too short!) but it cut my time in half and the accuracy of the cut was much improved! Of course, this might be obvious to many, but sometimes we just get working along and don't pay attention to the obvious. Though it might not hurt to mention it. Same goes for grinding belts, of course....... ....except for Trizact belts and cork belts, which seem to never wear out, at times!
__________________ http://www.srjknives.com NRA Endowment Member Knifemakers' Guild Member since 1971 "May you live all the days of your life." - Jonathan Swift |
#262
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I just started using Rhynowet sheets for my hand work and applying to the disc sander. These are without a doubt the best I have used, they last longer than any that I've used and the price is about half of klingspor. Nick Wheeler plugged them in one of his youtube videos and he was spot on!
__________________ Zane Blackwell Member: Knife Rights |
#263
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This brings up a good question, I think. Does anyone here prefer one brand of sand paper over another? I have been using Klingspor from Pop's on my disc sander but recently got some 3M and I think I like it better. Both are quality so even though I say I like the the 3M better it doesn't make a lot of sense. I would think quality is quality. It's not like I'm comparing 3M to Harbor Freight paper.
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#264
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I have used klingspor for years and still use their belts. They are a little less expensive than 3m. But 3m and Norton both make very good belts in my opinion. I did notice a fair amount of difference between the rhyno sharp sheets and the klingspor. I do a lot of hand work also and there is a pretty good difference in how long the rhyno sharp sheets last. In coarser grits I can rinse them out and go again!
__________________ Zane Blackwell Member: Knife Rights |
#265
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I know I knife shop is not a great place for magnets, but I take an old speaker magnet and place on the bench close to where I'm working and set screws etc... on it. I have a demagnetizer if I have to de-magnetize them before final use.
__________________ Zane Blackwell Member: Knife Rights |
#266
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I'm anxious to get some Rhynowet sandpaper. I use whatever belts I can get, many of the lower priced ones, especially the ceramics, seem to do a very good job.
__________________ http://www.srjknives.com NRA Endowment Member Knifemakers' Guild Member since 1971 "May you live all the days of your life." - Jonathan Swift |
#267
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Where do you buy rynowet sandpaper?
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#268
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Twithers, I purchased mine from supergrit.
Steve, I love ceramic belts!! __________________ Zane Blackwell Member: Knife Rights |
#269
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You know, in one of my books a knifemaker painted his floor bright orange. The theory was that if he did drop something it would stand out against the floor.
As for me, I can't keep up with nothin. |
#270
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One of the best tips I've heard in a while, I got from Steve's sub-hilt video. The thumb of an old glove cut off and slid over your present glove. I don't know why but I wouldn't have thought of that and it works great.
__________________ Zane Blackwell Member: Knife Rights |
Tags |
art, blade, brand, building, fixed blade, forge, forging, grinding, guard, handle, hidden, knife, knife making, knives, material, noob, pivot, post, sheath, solder, stone, supplies, supply, tang, trap |
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