Need someone to heat treat 1095

[cwiehle0]

I am finishing my first stock removal blade and need someone to heat treat it. I still have to drill some holes in the tang and sand a little bit more, but other than that it's ready, I think. Let me know if anyone on here wants to do it, or has some recommendations.
Thanks Chris

[AcridSaint]

I would get in contact with Delbert Ealy:
http://www.ealyknives.com/

[cwiehle0]

Thank you!!!

[john smith]

Chris I'm new to the world of knife making also and have only made four knives. Three of them have been 1095 that I have heat treated with a oxy/ace torch to non magnetic then quenched in warm tranny oil. I tempered in the kitchen oven.
I think they turned out pretty good and half the fun and experence of making the blade was heat treating! 1095 can be a little tempermental, but the good advice you get from all the great makers on this net will help alot. From reading your profile it sounds like your handy around the shop and might have more then some basic tools around.
I'm just in the final stages of building my gas forge.
Good luck and show some photos when finish

[DiamondG Knives]

I agree with doing it yourself, but better yet find someone that will let you watch the process as they do it. This can take much of the mystery out of the process. Heat Treating like most other things has it own special learning curve. But if you cant find anyone in your area, by all means send it out. Nothing like making a great blade to have it blown by the heat treat!

One other suggestion is to make some trial knives. Dont invest huge amounts of time in the finish. Focus on design, proper and even grinds, then heat treat. Remember these are be used as a training aid in heat treating. That way you can test to destruction and see what it will hold up to. Nothing will build your confidence in your work like having one to play with like this!!

Just my $0.02

God Bless
Mike

[cwiehle0]

Thanks for the advice guys. I do want to try heat treating myself, but like you said, I already have a ton of time invested in this blade, which is my first. I'd rather not screw it up. I think I will try what you suggest and make a trial blade and test my skills on that. I would like to pick a steel and stick with it, but there are so many options.

[DiamondG Knives]

Picking one type steel and learning all its tricks and quirks is a good idea. Some folks just don't understand that each type of steel, and even each batch of the same steel for that matter has its own personality. Learning how to make one perform to your needs is much more than a hit or miss venture.

Good luck with the blade and keep us posted on how it goes.

God Bless
Mike

[WBE]

Originally Posted by john smith

Chris I'm new to the world of knife making also and have only made four knives. Three of them have been 1095 that I have heat treated with a oxy/ace torch to non magnetic then quenched in warm tranny oil. I tempered in the kitchen oven.
I think they turned out pretty good and half the fun and experence of making the blade was heat treating! 1095 can be a little tempermental, but the good advice you get from all the great makers on this net will help alot. From reading your profile it sounds like your handy around the shop and might have more then some basic tools around.
I'm just in the final stages of building my gas forge.
Good luck and show some photos when finish

The above HT for 1095 will not get it done. Non magnetic is not hot enough, and ATF is not fast enough. You have blades that are largely hard pearlite, and will not hold the edge that 1095 is capable of. Non magnetic is 1414?, and 1095 needs to be up around 1500? to go into a full solution with well dispersed carbon, as do nearly all high carbon steels. The magnet is not to tell you to quench, but to tell you to go a couple of shades of red above the non magnetic stage before you quench. A good quench for 1095 must cool it from 1500?, to under 900? in no more than one second, or the structure goes into pearlite, with a mix of martensite, which will not hold a good edge. The old file test will not tell you what the structure is, because it will skate over hardened pearlite as well as good martensite. The best oil for 1095 is Parks #50. The next best is probably canola oil, but it will not match the Parks #50. Your third other method, and the fastest quench, is a strong brine solution, but then you risk cracking the blade. If it does not crack, then you have the 1095 at it's absolute best. Temper immediately.

[AcridSaint]

The above post is why I recommended Delbert for 1095. He uses and oven and heat treat oil (I don't remember if it's Heatbath or Houghton).

[john smith]

Originally Posted by WBE

The above HT for 1095 will not get it done. Non magnetic is not hot enough, and ATF is not fast enough. You have blades that are largely hard pearlite, and will not hold the edge that 1095 is capable of. Non magnetic is 1414?, and 1095 needs to be up around 1500? to go into a full solution with well dispersed carbon, as do nearly all high carbon steels. The magnet is not to tell you to quench, but to tell you to go a couple of shades of red above the non magnetic stage before you quench. A good quench for 1095 must cool it from 1500?, to under 900? in no more than one second, or the structure goes into pearlite, with a mix of martensite, which will not hold a good edge. The old file test will not tell you what the structure is, because it will skate over hardened pearlite as well as good martensite. The best oil for 1095 is Parks #50. The next best is probably canola oil, but it will not match the Parks #50. Your third other method, and the fastest quench, is a strong brine solution, but then you risk cracking the blade. If it does not crack, then you have the 1095 at it's absolute best. Temper immediately.

WBE, thankyou for stepping in and telling chris and myself that my method of treating carbon steel is not that good. I do bring my blades to above none magnetic,I just did not state that right in my above comment but I'm sure they are still not close to 1500 degrees. I will change my quench, this was a recipe I read about. I know everyone has there own methods and there is alot to learn and understand but half the fun of knife making is the heat treating. There is nothing wrong with sending blades out for treatment.
Again thanks alot for correcting me,

[cwiehle0]

I e-mailed delbert and he said he would do it.
Thanks for the advice.