Blue Rhino Tanks

[Txcwboy]

How many of yall out there us a tank from down at the local convience store to power your forge ? Are they BlueRhino's ?

Dave

[Doug Lester]

Yep.

Doug Lester

[Crex]

I bought my own tanks. I've seen to many Blue Rhinos with faulty valves. Plus I've been able to get mine filled for $4-$5 cheaper than a trade in.
However, if your going to use a lot, go to a 100# or larger tank. Won't freeze up and you get an even better price on refills.

[GHEzell]

Oddly enough, the place that used to fill my tanks charges more than the local convenience store usually does, so I switched over to the pre-filled tanks a few years ago, and have only once had a problem with them (one tank was only about half full, my bad, should have noticed the light weight). They're not blue rhinos, though, but a fairly local company.

I usually try to have a full spare tank whenever possible, in case my main one runs low or freezes up.

Crex, you've worried me, I'll keep an eye on the valves, haven't had a problem yet, but...

[AUBE]

I use them on my small 1 burner forge, so far no problems and decent prices. I often work at night and its nice that I can drive up to Home Depot, Menards, etc even after they are closed and pay with my debit card to get one in the middle of the night if needed.

[Crex]

Aube - I see the convenience, I've never needed one in the middle of the night though. I only use the small 20#rs when I do a demo away from home. I like the 100#r best as it is still managable but provides a more consistant feed because it won't freeze up.

GHEzell - My Traditional Arts Apprentice has one BR right now that the valve stem is loose and he has to play with it to get it to feed enough for his torch to burn properly. My son had one that leaked. I've seen several others that have obviously had wrenches used on the handles. I don't feel comfortable using a tank that has been abused by someone else.

****Never store Lp in the house, garage, or other confined space ever**** (that's just common sense).

I think the thing I hate most on the new small tanks is that you cannot get the last couple of pounds out due to the new safety valve requirements, therefore you are charged for 20#s but only get 16 or 17 #s in reality. The old gentleman that fills mine goes by weight and actually takes the time to calculate by tare weight and residual before he begins fueling then charges for actual amount he puts in tank. Haven't found anyone else that actually does that. Most just go by tare + 20 and have a set charge for 20 period. I've had a few times at other places that have overfilled - yes it can be done even with the new safety valves - very annoying. If they get too warm in the hot sun they will vent gas and if you try to use them to run your forge your lines will freeze up and you'll have to bleed off some.
If you have to use the swap-outs just be sure to inspect them carefully before you pay and leave. Just use common sense and be safe.

[Txcwboy]

I exchanged the tank. STILL SAME results. I tried following Zeller Forges guide for lighting it. Just doesnt stay light. My BBQ does the same thing at times. It lights but makes a loud blowing burning noise with littel flame. I turn it off and re do it and it works fine. This is what my burner does too. Lights then goes to a too much air not enough fuel burn.

???? I dont know anything else I can do. I dont have 100 for a 100# tank either.

Dave

[Crex]

Are your fittings frosting up? Tank has been overfilled most likely, and fuel is trying toevaporate in you lines instead of your tank.

What kind of regulatory valve do you have in line on your torch hook-up? Some needle valves have a ball/spring safety shut off as in a Bernz-o-matic torch, that will crud up and cause problems.

Are you trying to run through a BBQ regulator (fixed pressure kind)? The fixed regulators are set for low pressure and low fuel feed, they won't work well with a smithing forge.

There are a lot of different variables that can affect fuel feed and burn characteristics. You will need to go through the entire hook-up one component at a time and eliminate the ones not causing the problem to find the culprit.

Can you post pictures of your set up?

[Txcwboy]

This article is actually a carry over from another one in which I explained it all but here it is. It was working fine ( finely after a year of trying to get burner/ forge setup correctly) it was on a Blue Rhino tank. I bought a new tank and BAM no more worky. Messed and Messed with it. So one said its the tank. I exchanged the tank. No different. I dont know anyone else to take it over and try it out at their forge. It is doing exactly what Zeller forge site mentions. Lights at full blast then drops to a trickle in a second later.

Dave

[Crex]

Dave
I can imagine your frustration.
If you can run your torch outside of your forge clamped in a vise, this is what I'd try first.
Provided that is a true needle valve to the right of your ball valve (yellow handle), close everything and disconnect from the tank; remove the regulator from the equation; hook everything back up and open valves in sequence beginning at the tank; have your lighter lit and ready in front of the torch (hands, face, etc. safe) and slowly crack the needle valve until you have ignition; if this works as it should then the problem is with the regulator. Do not depend on or use your regulator as a flow control valve that is not it's function. Use the needle valve to control fuel feed.
NOTE: If the small valve (far right) is not a needle valve, you need to change it out for one to gain better more finite feed control.

IF that doesn't change things then it is most likely the new valving/safety device in the tank. I have heard, but do not know for sure, that the new valve system, depending on mfgr, can be very sensitive to high volume discharge and will "choke" down if discharge exceeds a certain rate. You may have to "Creep" up on this rate to reach an optimum feed rate, however it may not get you where you want to be forge wise.

What type of torch design are you using? Is there a way you can change the orfice size? Also - how big is the hole in the tank disconnect nipple (Male end recessed in the black plastic connecting knob at left of pic.)? Some of those have a spring loaded ball valve or the hole is too small to feed sufficient fuel through. Several things to check but not hard to remedy.

Shame you are not close. I could have that thing working right in about 20 min.
Good luck (and don't do anything that will get you blown up!).

PS - I read an article awhile back about Lp and aceteline gasses, tanks, feed rates, etc. that was pretty informative. if I can find it again I'll post the link. Found it:
http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/gasfacts.htm

[McAhron]

If your all using more than 50# a month and own your homes,then call your local propane co and have them bring a large tank and put you on a delivery service.It'l save a lot of money and time.

[Txcwboy]

I took it over to a buddies that had a forge setup and it did the same thing on his tank. !! SOOO its the regulator !! FINALLYYYYYYY Now I need to find a new regulator. He had a CF 103 from Chen Fong. I liked it. I cant find it online though...YET. Anyone seen one ?

Dave

[Txcwboy]

Well I finally replaced the regulator and hooked it all back up. Fired it up today and WAH LAH ! It runs again ! I did notice a "squeek" noise coming from the valve on the tank and the tank gets cold now. I dont recall it getting cold before. I does take a little bit to get up to 8 to 9 pounds, it doesnt climb fast as you open the reg. valve.
Thanks for the help

Dave