What defines a hunting knife?

[NJStricker]

Dodd,

I really think you've got it with that second pic. What are the dimensions? The finger groove ahead of the guard is a good idea for choking up on the blade for close work.

Generally, field dressing only requires opening up the body cavity (and usually cutting through pelvic bone) to remove the guts. This is the minimum most hunters will do in the field for whitetail deer, especially if they plan to take it to a butcher. A clip point or drop point design is good for this task, and your design should be good here.

Skinning can come later, and requires removing the hide from the body. Around the shoulders and back of a deer there is a lot of connective tissue that needs to be cut away. Thin upswept blades with lots of belly like the Nessmuk, buffalo knife, or Grohmann are good here. Your knife will still do fine, but won't be as efficient for cutting as something with a lot more curve. I've skinned out deer with knives similar to your design, with no complaints.

For larger animals that may need to be packed out, quartering is required. This is when the limbs are cut away from the torso at the shoulder or hip. This means cutting through a good bit of tendons and cartilage, especially for the hind leg at the hip joint. A thicker blade is nice here for a little added strength. Your blade design is a good one for this task, and if your landlord intends to hunt a lot of large animals (elk or moose) then you might consider going with thicker stock. Otherwise, if it will be used primarily on whitetail deer then 1/8 inch should be fine.

For trophy animals a small blade is needed for fine skinning and cutting to remove the hide from the skull without poking holes in it. Your knife will probably be too big for this task

Overall I think you've designed a good overall hunting knife. I see some similarities in the blade shape to a Buck Vanguard, a large droppoint that has been popular for many years.

[Dodd]

Those are very informative answers.

To review:
1. The blade OAL is 7.7 inches, by about 1 1/4 inches, assuming it's full tang.
2. I should give it a little more belly and extend the swedge further towards the guard
3. I should consider 3/16ths inch steel rather than 1 inch if it's being used on eld and bear.


This is really great.
I'm working on a ladies' dagger, big camp knife and seax ground from files to practice technique.

[gray9]

Hey guys-- I assume from the last posting date this thread is dead. In case not; I'm a relatively green collecter (10 years). I collect folders mostly and know next to nothing about fixed blades but the other dat I saw a D. F. Kressler drop-point hunter. Mmm...now if I could afford a hunter like that I'd get it. It's such a beauty, but what I'm wondering is would it be as fine and durable a tool as it looks?

[cwp]

Gray,

I do not know anything about D.F Kressler, so I really can't comment on that. As far as the thread being dead, I think you should raise on ald thread when it fits, keeps the same info from being re-hashed as much.

I would probably start a thread asking about Kressler if you want more info, I'm sure somebody might know his work.

Any progress on this Dodd? Really looking forward to seeing what you end up with.

--Carl

[BoBlade]

Dodd,

This may be a case of great minds thinking alike. Here is a pic of a 50's Loveless Delaware Maid drop point hunter. I couldn't help but notice the resemblance.

Ron

[IMG][/IMG]

[supermag]

I would also think about taking the top edge off. When I use a knife for some things I like to put my index finger out on the back of the blade, a false edge makes this uncomfortable. The finger groove in the blade would also be very conductive to using it this way.