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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 09-23-2012, 09:48 PM
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Idea for your Rotary platen

Hi Ed
I realy like your Rotating platen idea. But I use a 3/4" wheel a lot and came up with an idea to add a 3/4" wheel to it. If I was to send you a drawing would you take a look and tell me what you think?
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MoblMec
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:51 AM
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Sure, I'd be happy to take a look! Are you thinking of replacing one of the existing wheels with the 3/4"...or adding the 3/4" (then it would be a 3 wheeled plate)

The main reason I did not go with a 3/4" wheel on the original design, was/is due to the very small bearings in a 3/4" wheel.....in order for the bearing to last, a 3/4" wheel must turn slower and should only be run for 5-10 mins at a time.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.


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Old 09-24-2012, 01:15 PM
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rotating platen

Ed
I would be adding a little more than I said. I am working on drawings so you will understand what I am talking about. I will send them as soon as I get done.
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MoblMec
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:38 AM
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Hi Ed
I sent you an email yesterday and wanted to check that you got it?
MoblMec
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:33 AM
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Yep! I got it, and looked it over. Looks like it's doable. I've seen several similar setups...some folks like them, and other don't. Based on my experiences, I'm one of those who didn't like it after I used it a few times. For me, I solved most of my issues by just modifying the tooling arms on my grinders with a 3/4" socket setup....and all the attachments with a 3/4" pin. That allowed me quick changes with basically the turn of a hex wrench, which hangs on a chain between my two main grinders.

The one thing you want to keep in mind when you build that attachment....the fact that your using a 72" long belt is the constant.....so you have to make sure that there is enough room so the attachment doesn't hit the grinder frame with a belt in place. That means you have to size the actual attachment with that fact in mind. Aside from that the most important thing is to ensure the attachment holes are a true 90 degrees (square) to the attachment main boday (plate).....even one of the wheels being off a little bit will cause all kinds of tracking/running issues. (I won't even explain how I know that! )


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Old 09-30-2012, 12:09 PM
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Hi Ed
Sorry it took a few days to get back to you but have been real busy.
Thanks for looking at my idea but I have a few questions.
First you said you didin't like this set up from experence. WHY?
I don't want to waste time and money if it is not worth it.
Second you mentioned havening seen set ups like this before.
Can you steer me to those setups so I could compair notes?
Third you said you changed your tooling arms to a socket and pin setup.
Do you mean you don't change the tooling (arm) just the wheel or attachment on the end???
I could see how this would keep you from having to line up the round tooling arm insert everytime on the BM2 machine.
Also I figure as long as I keep the rotating backing plate under 12" it should clear the machine because my 12" wheel clears good.
I figure I will build the backing plate out of wood and fit my wheels to it and try it for size and fit before I spend the money to do it out of steel or aluminum. Which brings me to another question. What thickness of steel or aluminum would you use. Do you think aluminum would work as it would bre much lighter.
Sorry for all the questions.
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MoblMec
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
you said you didin't like this set up from experence. WHY?
Too many parts that all MUST be perfectly aligned and squared to the base plate.

Quote:
you mentioned havening seen set ups like this before.
Can you steer me to those setups so I could compair notes?
Back when the first "Rotary Platen" came out from Rob at Beaumount, many folks to his idea and tried things similar to what your drawings show...... I can't name them all, but I think if you posted a thread asking, you'd likely get a lot of responses. Most of us started with the same idea of it being super convenient....but as with most things where we try to put a lot of "things" into one device, it becomes a headache rather than the "great" thing we thought it would be. There might still be a few out there who are using something similar, but speak strictly for myself, burning out bearings on the smaller wheels, coupled with having to thread a belt through/around things, when I wanted to be grinding ended it for me.

Quote:
you said you changed your tooling arms to a socket and pin setup.
Do you mean you don't change the tooling (arm) just the wheel or attachment on the end???
Right...that is the solution I settled on. All my grinders use a 1 1/2" solid square tooling arm, with a 3/4" socket/hole. And all attachments use a 3/4" pin. I rarely ever change a tooling arm....just use have a single allen wrench hanging on a chain, loosen an allen bolt, take one attachment out, insert another, and tighten down the allen bolt.

If your going to use aluminum, go with at least 1/2" thick for rigidity.....with steel you could likely get away with 3/8" thickness.
The placement of the "pin" on the attachment is critical, and you must completely think through the exact spot you place it....otherwise some part of the attachment are usable, and others are not.


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Old 10-03-2012, 08:50 AM
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Thanks for your time Ed maybe I will go the rout you did with just changeing the wheels on the end of the arm.
Thanks
MoblMec
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