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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Combo handle finish?
Has/does anyone use a combo of BLO and Tru-oil as a handle finish?? Pros and cons?
Thanks |
#2
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Tru-Oil is better.
I have used Birchwood Casey Gunstock Wax and the Tru-Oil. They both work well for natural wood better than Boiled Linseed Oil which I use on leather.
I sometimes mix BLO with melted wax to waterproof my sheaths for non-stainless blades. FYI Also leave a small hole in the bottom of such a sheath on the back, so in case water gets in there it can run out. I usually seal most of my exotic woods with MinWax Rub-on PolyUrethane and then wax for shine. I also sometimes seal with epoxy thinned out with lacquer thinner, several coats and it takes a couple three four days. Then sand with 1200 grit, buff with slow buff (500 rpm) and then the gunstock wax. For none of the above, for lets say ironwood or similar I use Tru-Oil after 1200 grit sandpaper and same buff with 5000 grit diamond paste and light wipe with Thinner to remove any diamond paste. What kind of wood do you have in mind Kevin? You see that determines what I use. __________________ Now it says Guru and it used to say Master. I think I like Master better, though skilled would be the best description Last edited by jimmontg; 11-17-2017 at 05:09 PM. Reason: punctuation |
#3
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yeh I can say that diamonod paste works on...well just about anything from steel to handle material ......THANKS JIM
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#4
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I use hand rubbed polyurethane on all the wood in my handles, at least 3 or 4 coats, then follow up when it's dry with Renaissance Wax. Gives a great finish and doesn't get slippery when wet.
I also use the Renaissance wax on the metal parts of the knife, great product. It's available from several knife maker's supply places. |
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Tags |
back, blades, diamond, epoxy, finish, guns, hand, handle, handle material, ironwood, knife, leather, linseed oil, material, metal, sand, sheaths, small, stainless, steel, supply, wax, wood, woods |
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