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Fit & Finish Fit and Finish = the difference in "good art" and "fine art." Join in, as we discuss the fine art of finish and embellishment.

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Old 05-03-2004, 10:21 PM
cassio cassio is offline
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How get a Perfect fit

Hi, how I can get a perfect fitting between bolsters, guards, handle, etc. thanks, Cassio
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Old 05-04-2004, 02:08 AM
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sdcb27 sdcb27 is offline
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practice, practice, practice, cuss, practice, drink beer

Cowboy inc
Keep a light rein, a foot on each side and a faraway look
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Old 05-08-2004, 07:06 AM
JimmySeymour JimmySeymour is offline
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Just got back from the abs handles and guards class. We got a perfect fit by machining the shoulders with an endmill. Then machining a slot in the guard smaller than the tang and press fitting them into place. If you don't have an endmill, you can get a really tight fit using uncle al's shoulder filing jig. I did better with that than the end mill. I trashed 3 blades of mine learning how to use the end mill. A good flat platten with sand paper is all you need to get your stuff flat so you wont see a seem in your joints. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:51 AM
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Geno Geno is offline
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Simple, don't leave any gaps.
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Old 06-27-2004, 04:52 PM
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I use Romey's method. Dave
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Old 06-27-2004, 07:36 PM
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Geno Geno is offline
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All kidding aside, fit up is the most critical of all steps. If it doesn't fit well it won't look well.
Nothing more dissappointing than to see a gap in a otherwise fine piece of work.

Files are the common tool to trim flat, square shoulders, ect...
Relief cutting is popular too, that is to cut away the inside of the flat, so the outside rim is all that touches. Many use spacers to fill and blend gaps.
It is simply best not to have gaps. take your time on fit up.Mark your parts so something does not get turned around and put in backwards.

To check fit ups, hold joint to the light and look for any light coming thru the joint area.
When NO light passes thru, there is no gap left.
It is equally important to clean each piece before final assembly. One chip.002" thick will leave a gap at least that big.

I use files a lot more than my mill.
Any tool can only do what you ask it to, and that comes with experience.
My files don't require set up times, my mill does.
I'd be through with my files before I ever got my machine set the way I want it.
(and I came from a machining background)

No matter what your choice of tool, time is what makes the difference, not the tool.
You need to slow down at this point or the final product will suffer.
Perfect fit is where it's at-all kidding aside.
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:19 PM
cassio cassio is offline
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Thank you very much, Iwill take my time
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:05 PM
AwP AwP is offline
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Here's a little fitting trick you might find useful that I've read about and used. There's stuff you can buy that I think is called layout compound, but lipstick works just as well.

Cover one side of what you're trying to fit in a thick layer of lipstick, i.e. w/ slab handles you'd either put it on the tang or the slab, not both. Then fit the pieces together in position and take them back apart. On the uncoated surface you should see lipstick on the high spots, sand/grind/file the parts with lipstick leaving the part without alone. repeat until the entire surface is covered with lipstick, then it's a perfect fit.

~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus
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