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#46
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Just picked up one of their blades!
*SWEET LEAD* Thanks for sharing!!! |
#47
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Well, Here it is...
Great Looking Blade, sweet price, and Grand Leavitt was an easy deal to make. Grand let me know when it shipped, and gave me some tips for dealing with Damascus. I am *mostly* very pleased. Has NOTHING to do with Grand or his product... and EVERYTHING to do with my ability to fit it... (grin)
Check it out... The second picture is MY problem to figure out. Just a little of the spine is sticking up. Lockup is good... did just a shave on both the engagement points of the blade and the stop pin. didn't want to shave too much and blow the lockup fit completely... so I am looking for suggestions! Last edited by Pierre; 04-26-2008 at 07:30 PM. |
#48
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Here's the "suggestion"...
That little bit sticking up is no big deal. Relatively easy fix. The whole point of these kits is that you're supposed to have to do some of the work yourself and this "after market" damascus blade, that looks nice but is ever-so-slightly-off, is perfect in keeping with that DIY theme. All you gotta do is file/grind/sand it down using whatever you have that'll work (a decent file or a Dremel-type tool should do the job). until it's flush with the bolster (that bit on top has nothing to do with the lock-up). When you've got it flush and sanded to 400- 600 grit, you'll then have to re-etch that top area so that it matches with the rest of the blade. Note: You should remove the bolsters for this job, but keep putting them back on as you go to check the fit (called "sight fitting"). A little work on your part and this should turn out great! Have fun with it!! Dennis |
#49
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Ahhh... I like it when I am thinking correctly. That seemed to be the correct thing to do after the lockup setup nicely... Perhaps this would be a good candidate for some filework after some practice. Hmmmm....
I guess the whole point is that when you are learning, there is no wrong way. Sure is good to get your idea validated before you plunge! (grin) Particularly when the blade cost more than the kit... (LOL) Sounds like I will be getting out to Radio Shack tomorrow. I will hunt down the etching instructions I came across previously. I will post some pics when she is done. Needs thumbstuds and a new set of scales I am thinking. Thanks Dennis. I really appreciate "suggestions"... |
#50
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It just occured to me... I assume that blade has already been heat treated. Which means it's gonna be a bitch to take that down using a file...possible, but a lot of work and you'll probably go through a file or two. But a Dremel, or similar rotary tool, can handle that with little difficulty. If you don't already own one, the Dremel, or Foredom, or whatever, will prove useful for many years to come. I use mine almost every day. It's also gonna help if you want to extend your filework from the backspine across to the (hardened) blade.
To grind down that small section on top use course to medium grit sanding drums on an expandable rubber topped mandrel (smaller, 1/2" versions come with most Dremel kits). Then fine sand with the Dremel, and/or sandpaper that's backed up to something hard (I sometimes wrap the sandpaper around a small piece of scrap micarta that I've been using for years. If I want something not quite so stiff, I'll use hard rubber "tadpoles" that I got from Woodcraft). |
#51
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Dremels Rock - I have 2, never run without a backup... (grin)
I will give it a whirl. Thanks for helping me open my mind. I will loosen up and get more creative. That is why I took this on after all! I appreciate the guidance! |
#52
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Pierre,
Thats a great looking blade. I look forward to seeing some pics when you're done. |
#53
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a light sanding on a belt sander would do it yes, a dremel tool would as well. I think I would be using a file for it. because it would be SLOW going and you do not want to damage or file to much off. do *NOT* over heat the blade.
Once you get it off then some etching solution, 3 part water to 1 part acid, etch for 30 mins in 2x 15 min sessions, then lightly clean it with 00 steel wool, oh and neutralize it before cleaning. With that small amount you could probably use a cotton ball to re-etch that area. Also buff with brownells 555 grey. That is a fantastic looking blade. __________________ Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall But steel - cold steel is master of them all. Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936) |
#54
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I am surprised that you can tell how nice it is... I am about ready to pitch the old Sony digital. Seems to be working better in MANUAL mode for some reason!
So here are a couple more - It's not finished yet... HTH |
#55
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It just hit me. take the knife and lay it on a flat surface with the spine on the bottom, edge pointing UP. Look for gaps between the knife and the flat surface. I bet a few very very light strokes with a file on the lock will fix that problem and not have to change the blade.
All my shots are on manual mode. Ed __________________ Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall But steel - cold steel is master of them all. Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936) |
#56
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Just to add it in here is my 605 mini with the Grand blade:
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=46367 I have 3 kits still working on the other 2 with my son. Cheers Ron. |
#57
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Wanted to see about doing something with the bolsters so here's what I came up with tonight.
bottom one is b/w for pattern/contrast __________________ Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade. "Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall But steel - cold steel is master of them all. Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936) Last edited by EdStreet; 09-09-2008 at 10:24 PM. |
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blade, forge, knife, knives |
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