making mossaic pins

[goldenbolster]

I have found all the materials needed to make my own mossaic pins but I'm not sure what to use as the "glue" to hold them together. I have tried epoxy but once you mix it its hard to inject it into the tubes. It also has a LOT of bubbles in it. Any advise on what to use? I have used model paints to color the epoxy and it seemed to work is there anything better to use? Thanks for your input .




Stephen Reed

[Jamey Saunders]

I think the general consensus is to use epoxy. You can thin it down, but just a little. The model paint will thin it down, so be careful. As for the bubbles, mix slowly and carefully. Also, 5-minute epoxy is not the best choice for this application. Some folks use a vacuum pump and some clear hose for sucking the epoxy up into the tubes. As for the small bubbles that may be left, they can be filled at finishing time with some clear epoxy or superglue.

Hope that helps!

[tom mayo]

You really NEED to use a vacuum pump to get the epoxy where its supposed to be, otherwise its just a mess

Option two...........buy them already made (thats what I do!)

[Steve]

Buy 'em. Probably just as cost effective. But maybe you'll enjoy making them? Whatever works for you. I've never made one, it's got to be kind of a messy project.

[goldenbolster]

It has been very messy so far, but i found a 12" section to buy for $28.00 and i bought the supplys to make 24" section for $7.00 that includes the epoxy. So cost wise it is much cheaper, and with five children I have to be very very cost effective to be able to build knives. So far I used a turkey injecter after I mix the epoxy I "pour" it into the injecter. Then I attach a plastic tube to the end and over the pin. I just press the injectet until there's epoxy running out the end of the tube. Sometimes it works other times it makes a VERY big mess. Does anyone know where to get a vaccum pump? I would love to try that method over what i'm doing. Thanks again


Stephen Reed

[AUBE]

you can get a handheld vaccum pump at auto parts stores. comonly used to bleed brake lines.
i also noticed an electric vaccum at harbor freight last time i was there. it was cheap but i dont remember the stats on it

-Jason Aube

[Mail4Tim]

You don't need a lot of vacuum to pull the epoxy through the tube unless you are trying to work with very thick epoxy. If so I would suggest you thin it some. What I found that works the best for me is the very slow set epoxy. It takes this stuff about 12 to 14 hours to set up. I use a hand pump type vacuum pump and connect the pump to the pin using a length of silicone air line made for aquarium pumps. This is the very soft and flexible stuff. That makes it much easier to get it on the pins. I mix the epoxy in a small plastic cup ( the kind that a certain powered drink mix comes in). This gives a bit of depth so that the pin can sit in the epoxy and not draw air when you apply the vacuum. After the epoxy is mixed then I add the color, currently I'm using ink but there are other things that work also, paint, powered pigment etc. I would suggest that you mix up a batch of epoxy and color as a test first before trying it out on your pin material. After the epoxy is mixed and colored I sit the small cup inside a large mouth mason jar. This lets me rest the pin against the side of the jar and keeps it upright when pulling the vacuum. At this point connect the vacuum pump and pull a vacuum. When you see the epoxy start to enter the air line clamp the air line off and disconnect the vacuum pump I happen to use a small set of hemostats to clamp the line but you could probably use one of those large strong paper clip type clamps. After that I sit the whole thing in the corner and wait for the epoxy to cure.

I bought my hand pump a long time ago from McMaster-Carr but as Jason said you can pick them up at the auto parts store. Another option would be to use a large syringe (like the ones used to give a horse an injection) instead of the vacuum pump. You can also find a number of vacuum pumps for sale on Ebay. Just do a search for Gast pump. That would probably cost you more money but if you are planning on trying to stabilize some scale material you will definitely need a good vacuum pump for that.

Hope this helps.

Tim

[luc]

Hey Stephen!
I tried Emailing you but it did'nt go through.
Give me a call and I'll give you the rundown on my setup.
(505)265-4297
Lucas

[Darren Ellis]

Originally posted by luc
Hey Stephen!
I tried Emailing you but it did'nt go through.
Give me a call and I'll give you the rundown on my setup.
(505)265-4297
Lucas

Hey Luc, please post your set-up, I know I'd love to see it too! ...been thinking about making my own pins too and love to see the way everyone else is doing it!



-Darren

[Lloyd Hale]

I started making mosaic pens around 1975, what I did was I got all my tubes and squares and such from a hobby shop , cut every thing in 6 inch lengths and then mixed two hour epoxy with a few drops of Black India ink I then smeared epoxy on all the parts that was to be inserted into the outer tube individually... and started pushing everything in in their proper order.... It was very messy and you need to keep a shallow pan with Acetone in it for those sudden ooops I screwed up monents..... I liked 6 inch lenghs because it just seemed more convenient...

[aiiifish]

No need to spend alot on a vacume pump. I use a 60cc syringe that cost 1.95 and 12 inches of clear vacume tubing. The syringe pulls more than enough to move the epoxy all the way through and then some.

oh btw got the syringe at the local coop/vet store.

[goldenbolster]

Thanks Lucas (and everybody),

Maybe I'm doing it wrong I should draw with the turkey injecter instead of pouring the epoxy in and injecting it into the tube. Lucas I got your email and tried to call but you were out plus I had all me kids (5) this weekend plus my mom was in town so I haven't been able to call back. I can call or you can post it it's up to you. Thanks again guys


Stephrn Reed

[Jason Cutter]

I have tried everything mentioned here - what I do now is a combination - I cut everything to 6inch lengths, use 24hour epoxy, colour with K&G epoxy colorant. Fill any bubbles or holes close to final finishing on the assembled knife.

If you can get medical syringes from a pharmacy or local doctor, they work great. But be sure to use the 1cc or 2cc syringes. Any bigger and they are hard to control and don't apply enough pressure. Use Gladwrap to cover both ends when finished and leave the tubes upright. This prevents the epoxy from running out, which will happen if you lay it on its side, even if you wrap the ends first.

A maker I know has suggested using a straw (eg. McDonald's milkshake straw) fitted over the end of the tube and manually sucking the epoxy up. I've never tried this as it seems rather difficult and I can't imagine a mouth full of epoxy...


A little heat helps the epoxy run better, if you work in cold weather, but remember that excess heat will make the epoxy cure faster too. (Another reason to use 24hour epoxy.) Also remember that in smaller cross sections, epoxy will tend to cure faster as well, and it can generate quite a bit of heat while doing so, and it will make the tube feel quite hot !


Jason.

[Lloyd Hale]

I know it's fun and rewarding to do all the aspects of making a knife ... But some small jobs should be left to the experts , such as making Mosiac pens......

[aiiifish]

You know LLoyd your right......25.00 for a 12 in pin.... or 60 min making a pin at 60.00 an hour, plus materials....hummmmmmmm