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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#76
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Don , I am having a very hard time driving in the third pin so I can rough profile the knife , in fact I have not accomplished it yet . I just end up bending the pin . I am having NO luck trying to torque as I try to start the pin . Any suggestions ?
Actually I need to put on bolsters first , but I still need any suggestions . Also , when you plate quench do you leave the blades and springs in the foil pouch or remove them ? I. Tell me if you can see thru all the holes at all. You should be able to just see an opening in the springs. That's what the pin point picks up. As the point picks up that opening, you must push the pin in the opposite direction to line up the holes. If you can't see any of the spring holes thru the liner holes, you must reduce the tension by grinding the under side of the spring contact with the blade. It might help to work on one blade and spring at a time. Try assembling by driving the pointed pin thru the blade pivot hole. That hole has the least tension. 2. I always remove the foil as quickly as I can. I want the parts in as full contact with the plates as possible in order to keep them straight. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-19-2011 at 07:39 PM. |
#77
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Larry, I mistakenly hit "edit" instead of reply. That's why my reply is attached to your post.
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#78
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You can see through but it`s like less than half a hole , maybe closer to a quarter of the hole . When I set the spring tention , I raised it about 1/16th of an inch . I will try one spring at a time and see what happens if I get the opportunity to work on it tomorrow .
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#79
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Quote:
That's about right. You should be able to flex the spring up that much. Is there any chance that your springs are too hard to flex? They shouldn't be harder than 50Rc at the most. Show me the springs and I'll tell you how to weaken them if necessary. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-23-2011 at 11:52 AM. |
#80
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The springs have not been heat treated yet . This was to put together temporarily so I could profile the outside of the knife .
The springs will be 440c . Harden at 1880 , plate quench , temper at 1100 for 2 hours . Sound about right? |
#81
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I'll get back to you tomorrow re: the HT. Sounds about right but I want to check my records.
Your springs are evidently too thick to flex. Can you upload a photo? Also, did you tell me you're using 1/8" stock? Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-22-2011 at 11:45 AM. |
#82
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Yes , 1/8" stock , can`t upload photo yet . Looked at springs and I agree they are too thick to bend . A good 1/4 " from spring pivot pin hole to the tang. Instead of waiting for how you would suggest to thin them out , I took it on myself to grind some off the back and even some from the inside up to the last 1/4 " of the spring . Got it looking pretty good I think . Went to the rise and fall fixture and still within .003 in all 3 positions . OH WAIT ! Now the kick doesn`t hit because I removed some from the inside of the spring . When I get impatient , it always cost me in some way . I could try to remake the springs , but I`m sure something else will happen , so I`m scrapping everything and starting over . If I can learn how to post pictures maybe you will spot my problems in time for me to correct them . On the bright side , I think I am learning a lot , especially what not to do . Don`t give up on me yet .
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#83
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Sorry to hear that. Next time remove material from the inside of the spring by grinding a radius in the underside just ahead of the pivot. It will flex from the thinnest point.
Using 1/8" stock, the spring will have to be pretty thin just ahead of the pivot. I don't remember ever using anything thicker than 3/32" myself. Last edited by Don Robinson; 05-22-2011 at 11:46 AM. |
#84
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I need to slow down and not get ahead of myself and to get a answer if I`m having a problem . I`m just so excited to have the opportunity to learn how to do this . I think I understand what you are saying about the radius on the underside of spring . I will keep that in mind . I am using 1/8" stock because thats all I had on hand and never thought about it being so thick . Next time I order I will get some 3/32 " Is that what is normally used for folders?
Anyway , I got everything cut and ground,blade and spring pivot holes drilled , springs fitted to tang and starting to set rise and fall . Wanted to get what I could done as it will be several days before I get to work on it again . |
#85
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You're a glutton for punishment, Larry. Good on you for not getting discouraged.
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#86
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I'm back.
I've been able to do a little more work on my folder. I feel like brown stuff, but I'm doing what I can. I've matched the ends of the stag liners to the bolsters. I don't show this, but I laid out the location of two pins to hold the scales in place and drilled the holes thru both pieces at the same time. Two pins thru both liners assures they will be identical on each side. The tooling aid I'm using is made from a piece of aluminum square tubing, with openings milled out. The liner with its scale is clamped inside. I drilled the 1/16" holes thru both liners and their matching scales. |
#87
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After the holes were drilled I made a fairly large countersink on the tops of the pin holes inside the liners.
I peened one end of the 4 pins and inserted the pins thru the liners and scales from the inside. Now I can rough grind the scales to shape mounted on the liners. |
#88
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Don, I have a small mill, Rusnok as a matter of fact. Having thought about it awhile, I would like to try milling the sides of the blade. Any tips how to set up for that?
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#89
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Quote:
I explained how in the first page of this thread, Dave. What else do you need? |
#90
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Glad you are doing better Don. I hop to get one started before everyone here gets finished. Just have a little to catch up on first.
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Tags |
art, blade, brass, fixed blade, folder, heat treat, hunting knife, kit, knife, knife making, knives, pins, post, press, satin finish, scales, supplies, supply, tang, teach |
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