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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 04-03-2008, 12:00 PM
Dana Hackney's Avatar
Dana Hackney Dana Hackney is offline
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Handle screws/bolts?

Hi Ed!

Up until now, I've only used SS, NS and Brass pin stock to attach my handle slabs. I'd
like to try some handle screws/bolts for a set of 8 steak knives I'm working on for a
cohort at work.

My question: what do you use and are there any gotcha's when using screws/bolts?

Many thanks!
Dana
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  #2  
Old 04-03-2008, 07:16 PM
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Gary Mulkey Gary Mulkey is offline
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You'll need a step reamer. I get mine from Pop's.

Gary
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2008, 05:08 PM
Bob Hartman Bob Hartman is offline
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Don't reef down on them. Just snug them up good.
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2008, 05:25 PM
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ranger1 ranger1 is offline
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Don't get them to hot when grinding.They will heat up quick and burn your handle material.


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  #5  
Old 04-07-2008, 08:12 AM
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Dana Hackney Dana Hackney is offline
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Thumbs up Thanks Gary, Bob and Andy...

for all the good info. I'll write 'em down and keep them at the assembly station.

Best regards,
Dana
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  #6  
Old 04-07-2008, 09:57 AM
Craig B. Craig B. is offline
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When using Loveless type rivets it's kinda hard sometimes to not get a partial dark ring in the middle of the rivet where the screw threads show. I usually end up with at least some of the thread showing as a dark circle in the middle.

Brass nuts with ss screw or vice versa looks kinda cool with loveless rivets....

Good luck!


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Old 04-07-2008, 03:04 PM
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NJStricker NJStricker is offline
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You can pein the threaded portion once you're close to finish size to reduce the circle.

Also, make sure that the nuts tighten evenly on both sides. I had to redo a handle one time when I found that they were uneven. I think one side loosened up while tightening the other. anyway, I found out when shaping the handle on the grinder and ground through the nut.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:40 AM
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Dana Hackney Dana Hackney is offline
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Thanks Craig and NJ.....

I have actually thought about using the combo of brass and SS or NS too.
Good suggestion about peening as well.

Thanks guys!
Dana
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  #9  
Old 04-26-2008, 10:48 PM
Bruce D Bump Bruce D Bump is offline
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I like the stainless corby style. The 1/4" size is small but mighty strong. Alpha Supply sells them now. You can make your own step drill by grinding a pilot on a drill bit. I like the F size as it is a few thousands bigger and wont stress the scales but on some materials it will show a small gap around the head so I use a 1/4" step drill for those.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:09 AM
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Dana Hackney Dana Hackney is offline
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Thanks Bruce!

When you grind the step on the drill bit do you chuck the bit you are grinding in the drill press and
use a carbide bit in a dremel or foredom to make the step?

Thanks again!
Dana
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:12 PM
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I just order a batch of 5/16 stainless Corby's. I plan to use them to secure buttcaps to knives because I can countersink the hole and then grind the head flush hopefully without the tang showing through. In the past, I have used acorn nuts that have been turned down, but they can look a bit clunk on some knives. Using a nut instead of brazing one to the buttcap means that I can pretty much shape the cap before it goes on the knife......plus Ihave no idea how to solder, much less braze I use pin stock on my handles as I pretty much only make hidden tang knives. On a similar note, Jerry Fisk reports that using something like the KMG rotary platen seems to reduce the chaces of burning and eating away the softer handle material unevenly.


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Old 04-30-2008, 04:21 PM
Bruce D Bump Bruce D Bump is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana Hackney
When you grind the step on the drill bit do you chuck the bit you are grinding in the drill press and
use a carbide bit in a dremel or foredom to make the step?

Thanks again!
Dana
I just free-hand the step on with a new belt. Practise on an old drill bit first. Getting the actually cutting edge angle is the most difficult part. Be sure the pilot is the same size as the shank on the corby so it cant wobble. Or you could spend the money and have a machine shop grind it for ya on their tool post grinder. My buddy charged me $7 each.

I use corby bolts for take down framed handles and butt caps too.
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2008, 08:27 AM
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Dana Hackney Dana Hackney is offline
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Thumbs up Thanks Bruce and JD...

I think I'll opt for the machine shop to do my grinding . Thanks, also, JD for the
suggestion on the 5/16" corby. I've also used the 1/4" corby for attaching butt caps.
Maybe I'm starting to think like a real knife maker .


Take care guys,
Dana
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:51 PM
jdm61 jdm61 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana Hackney
I think I'll opt for the machine shop to do my grinding . Thanks, also, JD for the
suggestion on the 5/16" corby. I've also used the 1/4" corby for attaching butt caps.
Maybe I'm starting to think like a real knife maker .


Take care guys,
Dana
I haven't used a Corby yet....first try this week. The reason I went with 5/16 is that the threads are 8/32 and that is about as small as I want to get for a tang. Do you guys use your step drill for drilling metal too?


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  #15  
Old 05-03-2008, 08:21 AM
Bruce D Bump Bruce D Bump is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm61
I haven't used a Corby yet....first try this week. The reason I went with 5/16 is that the threads are 8/32 and that is about as small as I want to get for a tang. Do you guys use your step drill for drilling metal too?
I use them for metal too. They are made from drill bits so they work great. I also use my lathe to turn the head down in some cases. Where do you get the small 5/16" ones?
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