Using deer antler

[jboynton]

I've been using elk (from Elkins NH, of course) and have not gotten the penetration I expected with minwax wood hardner soak. I don't know about creating the vacuum and would appreciate ideas, comments, suggestions. Maybe that would help.

Would also appreciate ideas about cutting slabs for full tang handles, I did it, but seemed to be violating every bandsaw safety rule in the book. Has anyone come up with a mini- sawmill style jig to hold the piece of antler away from finger tips?

Even w/ my cut slabs I ended up with a fair amount of pith. I flat sanded and could readily see the lack of penetration by the minwax as I did so. Superglued the exposed edges when I was done just because I was itchy to finish a little patch knife for deer season, but I didn't find a really happy way to fill those pith edges that became exposed with the final grind after it was glued up.

As always, you folks out there are great and I'll appreciate the assist with any ideas you may have. Thanks. Jay

[Nat Bassett]

Mr. Boynton,

Don't know about cutting antler slabs, sounds tricky. But you can find out an awful lot about vacuums by putting the word "stabilization" into the Search feature on these forums.

Basically you use a vacuum pump to suck air out of a piece that is submerged in your stabilization fluid, so that when you release the vacuum, it soaks the medium up a little faster than it would otherwise. It's pretty cool in that when you start to apply the vacuum, the piece appears to fizz like an Alka Selzer as the air pours out of it.

The vacuum machine itself can be something as simple as a brake bleeding hand pump available for about $20 from Harbor Freight, to lab quality machines from other sources that can cost hundreds. Of course, if you are a little more adventurous, you can rig up a vacuum machine by modifying a compressor. I made a pretty good machine out of a 1960s Chevy air conditioning compressor and an old pump motor.

Whatever you do, proceed carefully. You're talking negative pressure here, electricity and really flammable liquids. I haven't had any explosions or implosions yet but I am dressed and outfitted for one when I stabilize. Got my dry chemical fire extinguisher on hand as well.

Also be aware that what you do with your jury-rigged setup will not be the same as what the professional stabilizing outfits do. They alternate near perfect vacuums with high pressure and use solutions that are heat cured. If you like that level of stabilization, use them, they sound very reasonably priced. I just can't resist tinkering with all the equipment, and kind of like the feel of my home done stuff. It's not as plasticty feeling, but in fairness, it's probably not as impervious to the elements either.

Nat.