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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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Rise and Fall Tool and Dial Indicators
Don, I hope this thread finds you well and I hope you are back in the shop by now. I got two questions which have probably been asked before but I will ask them again unless you have a thread link where these questions have been asked before. I just want to know if there are any specs out there to make a rise and fall indicator tool and also I have about three dial indicators in the shop and I was wondering why each one of the needles on them are not set on zero? Usually when I buy one the needles set on 9 or 10 oclock or in that area, I assumed there was a reason for it. I need to make one of the rise and fall tools or buy one if you sell them as long as they aren't too high. I have the ability to make one and have to save money where I can. Purchasing one though would be quicker and easier. Any info on these two questions is much appreciated. Thanks Don and keep up the good work.
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#2
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Quote:
You're welcome, friend. |
#3
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Here we go, Gil.
I'll attach some fairly self explanatory photos. Please ask questions.
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#4
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I've gotten these out of order, so bear with me.
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#5
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More
More photos.
Well, I said they'd be self explanatory, but maybe not??? I made mine out of 1/2" thick aluminum plate. The clamp is reamed to fit the indicator shank, split to the hole, and has one clamping screw. Don't just use a set screw against the shank. I have two screws holding the indicator holder to the plate. Most of my slipjoints use a 3/32" pivot pin, so I have that just in front of the indicator. The slide fits flush inside a milled track and has 2 pins in it, 3/32" and 1/8" It won't matter how many pins holes you have. When you drill the first pin holes, place your blade and backspring on the fixture lined up as they will be on your knife, more or less straight across. Then you can decide where to ream your pin holes. I'm getting tard, guys, so if you have any questions just ask. P.S. You can probably see this fixture in use on the slipjoint sticky above. Hope this helps, Gil. Go to it, my friend. Last edited by Don Robinson; 07-21-2013 at 03:16 PM. |
#6
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Don, what did you put on the end of the dial indicator?
It's an accessory flat point. You should be able to order a whole set of different points from most any machine shop catalog. Doesn't your indicator have a point screwed on the end of the shaft? Any point should work. What else? Last edited by Don Robinson; 07-21-2013 at 03:41 PM. |
#7
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Thanks so much Don for all your help. You always seem to be there when I need you for answers. It is much appreciated.
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#8
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Put 4 feet on it, or it will tip when you use it. Like mine!
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#9
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It has a screwed on point that came with it but it isn't as big around as the one you have on yours.
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#10
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That should work.
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#11
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Don, everything came out great. I need one more favor, I need a good source of some great looking damascus along with heat treatment instructions. I trust your judgement.
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#12
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Well you did that fast, Gil. Can you post a photo?
I can't help with damascus. I don't use it except for bolsters. |
#13
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Don, I was lucky enough to be able to pick one of these up from you, but thanks for sharing your design for all to see. Please, stay on the mend.
Take care, Craig |
#14
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Good to hear from you, Craig.
Where have all the old regulars gone? |
#15
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I think folks are around here and there, probably life gets mixed in to the picture.
Have a daughter down in your neck of the woods, on the border a little west of San Antonio. Always like visiting, Texas is really one of our great states. I was just at a Montana knife get together a few months ago. Had a fun time with a bunch of the 'old regulars'. I appreciate the good folks being around. Dig this one up in a few years and wonder again?, Craig |
Tags |
back, bee, bolsters, damascus, design, gun, heat, help., knife, knives, made, make, post, tools, woods |
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