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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 04-19-2017, 06:30 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Hammer control is whole separate issue and is subjective to your personal skills, available tools, and again the ugly head that rises......heat control. Lot of factors involved, but something that can be discussed/covered well in less than an hour at the forge. Then it takes concentrated focus in application to train muscles to do what the mind says the eyes see. Just too much to text-out here.


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  #17  
Old 04-19-2017, 08:13 AM
Gabriel G Gabriel G is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crex View Post
Hammer control is whole separate issue and is subjective to your personal skills, available tools, and again the ugly head that rises......heat control. Lot of factors involved, but something that can be discussed/covered well in less than an hour at the forge. Then it takes concentrated focus in application to train muscles to do what the mind says the eyes see. Just too much to text-out here.
Well if you have FaceTime and wifi we could set something up. Not as good but better than nothing.
forge has a 15" diameter but some grooves in the side would allow me to cap the hot zone with firebrick and pass through. That would allow me to use less air.


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Last edited by Gabriel G; 04-19-2017 at 10:16 AM.
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  #18  
Old 04-20-2017, 05:24 AM
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While it should work better, you might have a harder time watching you color come-up and see any changes. Tough enough with a coal forge to begin with. A section of black iron pipe 3" in dia can be used as a tunnel oven to keep direct oxidizing flame off your blade and stabilize/even-out your heat somewhat. Just insert at an angle and build your fire mound around it. That way you can keep a better watch on changes.

Sorry don't have those venues available and wouldn't know how to use them anyway......gheez I make knives with a hammer....
Just keep checking and asking there are accomplished smiths everywhere and probably one or two very nearby. Most just don't spend time at the end of the drive holding up "I'm a Smith" signs. Takes a little digging and legwork but they are out there.


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  #19  
Old 04-20-2017, 08:41 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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QUOTE: some grooves in the side would allow me to cap the hot zone with firebrick and pass through.

Uh huh, or you could just slap together a propane forge, solve all those problems in one shot, and spend your time making knives....


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  #20  
Old 04-20-2017, 12:08 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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I agree, not that I have a lot of experience with a coal forge. When I FIRST got interested in this I made a lil coal forge ended up looking similar to yours lets say I only used it twice. Then I learned how to build a proper propane forge and burner. Wich is not har at all and its not costly....you can find info all over the internet about it but as I said ask ray he sells a video very cheap that he made and it teaches you step by step of exactly how to build what you need using very cheap materials, Once I did that I never looked back the propane forge give you so much more control and is better suited for knife making....Especially in the beginning. That is not to say some guys out there don't make beautiful knives in a coal forge but I would bet the learning curve is a whole lot longer than using a propane forge....building a propane forge will not be any harder than building a coal forge in MY oppinin even easier
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  #21  
Old 04-25-2017, 10:59 PM
milkbaby milkbaby is offline
 
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FYI Aldo the New Jersey Steel Baron just got in a bunch of 1084 and 1095. I placed an order as soon as I saw that and will happily be receiving some steel by Fed Ex soon. Shipping to me in Florida is always about $32 from New Jersey, so it's a bit cheaper per billet of steel to stock up. It's mostly because the box is longer than four feet long, so there must be an oversize charge.

I know the thread has drifted a little bit, but if you get 1084, it'll be the simplest steel to heat treat. Just get it hot enough to see decalesence and soak 30 to 60 seconds if you have the patience, or heat to non-magnetic and then just a shade hotter, then quench in canola oil heated to about 130?F. Easy peasy even a numbskull like me can do okay.
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  #22  
Old 04-26-2017, 03:20 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Just looked up where Polkton is. You're over on the other side of Charlotte. If you were up here in the mountains Mayfield community colleges have blacksmithing classes and even a knife forging class too. As mentioned above hammer control is something that is an absolute needed skill. I worked in a blacksmithing shop and was taught just how to whack the steel to move it where I wanted it. Even did cold forging of some smaller parts on an old worn out anvil.

About all I could tell you is when you are shaping the final bevels to your blades is to use lighter blows and when you hit the part is pull the hammer slightly towards yourself to get the right touch on your blade. It helps to stop the blade from trying to curl up on you. Hard to explain exactly, but it helps shape the bevels on your blade very well and makes less dings to have to grind out. I did blacksmithing before I ever forged a knife so I was ahead of the learning curve. Take a look at some of the local community colleges and see if they have blacksmithing classes. I know it isn't a common occurrence, but worth a look-see. Heck, you never know, but would be worth your time and money to take the classes.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2017, 06:00 AM
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Just an addendum to what Jim has said and what I referred to earlier - don't get locked into having to learn the smithing skills from a bladesmith. Hammer control is hammer control and is necessary for any kind of smithing. Might check around to see if there are any general blacksmiting classes offered locally. I'd be quite surprised if there aren't any groups, orgs., clubs near you or at least in Chaorlette area. You can learn an awful lot from any of these.

Just did a quick google on the Charolette area black smiths. There are three east of town out around Midland and a few more just north and west. Getting in touch with any of these can give you the contacts you need to find someone even closer. There is also a NC chapter of ABANA website where you can ask for help and contact info. You'd be surprised what just a few simple questions will get you. Most of the smiths I know (that's a considerable number) are very willing to point you in the right direction, either hands on shop visits or how to connect with someone that can/will help you.


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Last edited by Crex; 04-27-2017 at 06:17 AM.
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