Barlow locking liner project for anyone to join

[Trenton Entwistle]

Don, so much for slowin' down!

Got home from work around 8:30 and was down in the "shop" buy 9:20.

Started right from scratch. Profiled blade and back spacer, cut the Ti liners.
Everything is done by hand except for the drilling of the holes and the cutting of the spring. I had to use 1/8" black linen micarta for the spacer because I don't have any steel that size that isn't already spoken for. I'm waitin' for more to come, but I wanted to get started!

Anyways, here are a few pics.

This is my second liner lock that I have made, and the first one basically made a nice 5 foot arc into the trash bin. This one looks like it will be a keeper. Keep in mind that these are Work in progress, and I'm no where near complete yet!



Materials all laid out for cutting (Ti is tough stuff to cut with a hacksaw)



Cut out



Blade and back spacer profiled.



Open



Closed.


Cheers,

Trenton

By the way, how long do I need to leave .050 Ti in the oven to get it a nice blue colour? I want a uniform colour, not the raiinbow that I usually do.

T.

[Don Robinson]

Originally Posted by R. D. Finch

Don

When you talk about slip-fit, what exactly is that? The dowel pins I got say .0002 oversize and they are hard to get out.
Also how hard is it to tap holes in nickel silver?

Ricky, I don't know exactly what you mean by "hard to get out". If you have to drive them in with a hammer, then that's a press fit.

If you can push them in by hand, then you have a good close slip fit. That's what you want. It's usually necessary to remove them by pushing or driving them out with a punch.

If they fall out by themselves, then that's too loose.

Nickel silver would tap easily, but it's gummy. Turn the tap in a turn or so, then back out a couple of turns to break the chips.

But why are you tapping the nickel silver??

[Don Robinson]

Twisty, that's fantastic!!! Great work!!! Fast!!!

You're all ready to fit the lock.

Great pictures!!!

Maybe that'll give some others a jump start.

One thing, though. The front end of the handle is supposed to be square.

Thanks a bunch, friend.

As for heat coloring, take a tip from our friend Frank Niro on this thread and use a piece of the Ti as a spatula, place the parts on the spatula over the flame on your kitchen stove, and toast it until you get the color you want.

I used my girl friend's stainless spatula to color the damascus on my barlow, and it didn't hurt the spatula.

I anodixe all my Ti, so i can't advise you on the temp./color thing.

Maybe Frank will chime in here with more advise. Look back in this thread and you'll find his advice on coloring.

[Don Robinson]

Twisty, here's a photo of the end of the handle.

I know it's not clear here, but there should be a 45 degree bevel right on the end. Each side, on the front of the bolsters.

If it's too late, though, we'll still give you a good grade.

[Trenton Entwistle]

Yeah, I know the front is supposed to be square, but I decided that I was going to make something that isn't quite kosher. I'm even toying with the idea of not having any bolsters. This knife is staying with me, so I decided that I wanted to play with it a bit. This will be the first folder that I have made for me. All the others have new homes.

I may even put a pocket clip on it!
Sorry Don, that's what hapens when I get tired.

Lock has een fitted, and blade has been HT'd. It's just being tempered now.

The wife told me that I have to go and do the dishes and make supper now, so maybe I'll get some more photo's later on. No maore play time for a while.

Cheers,

Trenton

As forr using the stove, well my wife just got a ne ceramic/glass top stove, and i she catches me with anything sharp or scratchy near that thing I think it will be the end of knife making.

T.

[R. D. Finch]

Don

I have to drive the stop pins in and it;s hard to get the liners apart. I'll chuck one up in a drill press and sand it a little. I had thought about placing the 2nd bolster screw on the insideof the nickel silver, did'nt know if it would work.
Also
How wide should a nail nick be, 0.035". I have a jewerleys saw 0.020 & 0.057 one seems to small the other to large.

[Don Robinson]

Originally Posted by R. D. Finch

Don

I have to drive the stop pins in and it;s hard to get the liners apart. I'll chuck one up in a drill press and sand it a little. I had thought about placing the 2nd bolster screw on the insideof the nickel silver, did'nt know if it would work.
Also
How wide should a nail nick be, 0.035". I have a jewerleys saw 0.020 & 0.057 one seems to small the other to large.

They are all different sizes. Whatever looks good to you. I'd think the .057" would be OK if you have room for it on the blade.

One thing, when the blade is closed, all of the nail nick should be visible outside the liner.

I put the whole assembly in a vise with the blade closed, and line up the cutter parallel with the edge of the liner. That may not work with a toothed slitting saw, though. I use a dremel disk.

[Trenton Entwistle]

Well, I think it's done. I got it in my head when I was makin' it that I didn't want any bolsters on the knife, both to be different, and because I'm making it for me so I get to do what I want.

Wood is stab. black ash burl died blue. Ti liners with a mild rainbow heat colouring. Black linen micarta back spacer.









Thanks for lookin'. I kinda like making folding knives. Think I'm gonna concentrate on them for a while.

Don, thanks for the great book. I have some plans in my head for a medium sized folder to use at work, and I know the book will help make it all come together.

Cheers,

Trenton

[Don Robinson]

Great, Trenton.

That knife and the can of beer reminds me somehow of an old knifemaking book by Ron Lake.

There's a picture in the book of him sitting at his pantograph smoking a cigarette after finishing a knife. relaxing and enjoying the feeling of personal accomplishment.

That's what this is all about, it's not really about making money. It's about doing something by yourself that gives a great feeling of personal satisfaction.

Take a look at my EDC on the "Available Knives" page of my web site. That's what you want for work, and you have the exact plans to build it yourself now.

I carried one of 3 prototypes I made of my first linerlock design for many years until I retired it a while back and decided to carry this one.

By the way, I showed the 3 prototypes to a collector the day I finished them, and he bought the other two on the spot. He wanted the third, but I told him no, I was going to keep it.

I've also got my first lockback, and a couple of my first slipjoints.

So, my new friend Trenton, more power to you and enjoy the trip. Get some rest.

Thanks for showing your WIP and the finished knife.

Don't be a stranger.

[Frank Niro]

Hey Trenton!
You did go for it and did a great job!!! Good for you! If you got just part of how I feel when I finish one you still have to be floating! This is a great idea Don started us on! Frank

[Frank Niro]

Well Don,
I just had to find something in my shop that was done "my way" and was usable by you. Well I got it inro the mail today. No it sure isn't some big package. Frank

[Don Robinson]

Originally Posted by Frank Niro

Well Don,
I just had to find something in my shop that was done "my way" and was usable by you. Well I got it inro the mail today. No it sure isn't some big package. Frank

?????? :confused:

[pjelect]

Ricky, I drilled some .052 Ti liners the other day
looking for the "slip fit" for the pins, but had picked up the wrong reamer and got a press fit instead. I don't like going back and redrilling or rereaming though existing holes(one of them usually gets off a hair), so I took a .001 oversized dowl pin with a short taper on the end and drove it through the existing holes with plenty of support around the hole. The regular folder pins didn't fall out of the new holes and I could put the folder together by hand with virtually no play at all. I was rather pleased with the results. I'm running behind the rest of you on the Barlow knife, but should be able to start it next week. Everyone's pic's and feedback to date has been most informative. Thanx, Pat McGroder

[Don Robinson]

Well well,,, Pat's back!

Good deal.

[Don Robinson]

Ricky, did you get your slip fits resolved?
Dowel pins are slightly oversize to be a drive fit. Pin stock will slip into a standard reamed hole.

Anybody got anything new to show or talk about?

I may build another barlow for show and tell.

I'm considering taking a table at the Central Texas Knife Show in August, if I can still get a table. If I get a table, i'll have to build some knives to show.

Come on now, this is the second week in May. Gotta get busy with those barlows to be done by the 4th. of July!