MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-18-2003, 12:00 AM
B_Schroeder B_Schroeder is offline
Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Armstrong, British Columbia
Posts: 1
Industrial Wood Chipper Blades

Hello, I am brand new to this forum with limited experience to knifemaking, the extent being a drop point skinner for hunting and a machete for my garden, both made from scrap chainsaw bars (1075).

I found some fairly used industrial wood chipper blades in my basement and im hoping someone here would know what steel it is. I believe they were made in 1993. A friend of mine said they are commonly D2 while others said L-6, I'm hoping someone could claify this for me. Also, would I need to anneal them? Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-18-2003, 08:49 AM
cactusforge cactusforge is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Quartzsite Az.
Posts: 1,482
I was given two brand new chipper blades and thay spark checked out D2. Gib


__________________
  #3  
Old 12-18-2003, 09:55 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,792
Such blades are often D2 but they could be anything. That's the problem with 'recovered' steel. Yes, you would have to anneal it unless you prefer to spend a fortune on cutting tools and belts, not to mention your time. If it is D2, you would need an electric furnace to properly reharden the steel after your blade is made. A few experts can treat D2 in a forge but it isn't a task for someone new to the game.

Free advice: D2 (if that's what you want) and several carbon steels that you could possibly heat treat yourself with a torch are available from any knife supply house. D2 is reasonably priced, carbon steels are very cheap. They come flat, straight, and annealed in sizes appropriate for knives and you will know exactly what you have and how to treat it...........


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-18-2003, 11:25 AM
cactusforge cactusforge is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Quartzsite Az.
Posts: 1,482
Ray you are exactly right, these blades are new and 1/2" thick and I don't know if I will ever use them. I would need to forge them and the time required would make them very expensive blades and not the best due to heat treating restrictions. Gib


__________________
  #5  
Old 12-18-2003, 02:17 PM
OutWest OutWest is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Western Slope, CO
Posts: 70
If you are lucky, the blades will have a phone number on them. Most of the ones I've picked up did and the mfg. was able to identify their steel.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-29-2020, 03:56 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,561
If you are thinking about forging D2, if it is D2, you will run into problems. From Jim Hrisoulas' book, The Master Bladesmith, it needs to be forged at yellow to bright yellow and even then it will pretty much laugh at your efforts because it is red hard. It will also need a high temperature oven to harden, as pointed out by Ray, to austenize before air quenching. In that last read that you can't really normalize it but you could do a sub-critical anneal. You have to heat treat D2 right or you end up with large carbides, causing sharpening problems, and retained austenite (the high regulated high temperature oven again) and possibly a talwar of liquid nitrogen.

It won't take long for that "free steel" to become awfully expensive. Buying a known carbon will probably end up cheaper in the long run.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough

Last edited by Doug Lester; 01-29-2020 at 03:59 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-30-2020, 06:56 AM
Crex's Avatar
Crex Crex is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Acworth, GA and/or Hanging Dog, NC
Posts: 3,490
Doug is spot on with his advise. Had several bladesmiths argue with me about this very same subject/metal. Performance testing is the best way to resolve the discussion. Not the backyard steel some "think" it is. Great blade material if you have the right equipment, but "muhhh" if you don't.


__________________
Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member
Knifemakers Guild, voting member
Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts
C Rex Custom Knives

Blade Show Table 5-J
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
art, blade, bladesmith, book, forge, forged, forging, harden, heat, heat treat, knife, knives, material, metal, sharpening, steel, tools, traditional, yellow


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:03 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved