Polishing wood

I did a search and couldn't find much.

I got some Maple Burl from The Wood Wright Shop and plan to use that on a fixed blade. Once you get it to the desired shape, how do you polish it to that glossy finish I see on all your knives?

Have any of you used Paduk (sp?) for scales?

Am I doing it the hard way?

Thanks
Ned

Ned, sand it out to at least 400 grit, preferably 600. Then apply whatever finish you are going to use (tung oil, linseed oil, etc.). When it's good and dry, rub it out with 0000 steel wool, and apply another coat. Repeat.

If you want a high gloss finish, there's no substitute (in terms of looks and durability) for having your wood stabilized before you handle the knife.

Ned, a trick I learned from the writings of the late Bob Egnath is to use super glue for a finish. Try to find a glue with a slow set, say 90 seconds and apply in thin even layers. do not sand between layers.Apply as many layers as you like,but remember this will increase the overall thickness of the handle, and mask off anything you don`t want glue on such as guards and bolsters, tang edges ect. when the glue has compleatly dried, buff for a high gloss finish. Hope this helps!!

Super glue works very well but be prepared to have a lot of patience. Stabilized wood is sooooooo much easier. It doesn't have to have a finish. Its like working with horn or stag in that respect.

Padauk has an extremely open grain. It is OK but not very figured. It would work as a handle material but be prepared to have orange hands if not sealed properly.

Craig

Hey guys
I used Padauk a few years ago because the person who bought the knife requested it. No figure so to speak but man it was orange and everything else in the shop was orange also.
It looked like a cheeto had exploded.

Scott

If not using stabilised wood, try sealing it before finishing with a coat of clear shellac. This will seal the wood and also eliminate blotching when using an oil finish. Use fresh shellac. If it won't dry in ten minutes, toss it.

Sand the shellacked wood with 220 grit, clean, and apply oil finish. Oil finishes should be sanded lightly (some will describe it as 'scuffed') with 220 or 320 between coats to provide a good surface for adhesion, oils are self-polymerizing and unlike shellac or lacquer will not dissolve part of the previous coat to provide adhesion.

A relatively quick drying oil finish can be made as follows:

1 part RAW linseed oil (NOT 'boiled')
3 parts 100% Tung oil (also known as China nut oil)
11? parts Spirits of Turpentine or Gum Turpentine
? part Japan Drier (can be purchased from a good paint supply store)

To make this into a varnish, dissolve amber into the turpentine first.

Leon Jester
LJ WoodWorks
Roanoke, VA, USA

Leon, I heard that oil finishes will oxidize some woods to almost a black. Will this formula do that??

Mike

I HAVE USED PADAUK SEVERAL TIMES IT IS VERY MESSY, THE OILS LOAD UP YOUR BELTS AND THE OPEN GRAINS TEND TO BURN ON THE ENDS. AT LEAST FOR ME. IT MAKES A PRETTY HANDLE THOUGH. I USED THE SUPER GLUE FINISH AND TURNED OUT VERY WELL.
GOOD LUCK.
PAUL