New Mortised Tangs Tutorial

[Terry Primos]

Hey guys,
I suppose this should technically be in the Website Updates forum, but since there has been some discussion going on about mortised tang construction, I thought it might be appropriate to put it in the General forum.

I've just submitted a new tutorial to the CKD Professional Tutorials section on the main website, but for those who want a sneak preview, here's link:

Mortised Tangs

NOTE:
As written, this tutorial is more suitable for those who use carbon steel. But it can be modified to meet the needs of those who use air-hardening steels.

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P.S.
If the moderators or other admins feel that this thread should be moved, feel free to do it. You won't get any whining from me.

[Vince]

Terry thank you very much for all the time and energy you devoted to putting this tutorial together. I found it to be very informative and easy to follow. If ever I had any questions about how to do a mortised tang knife (which I did) they were certainly all answered there! The sharing of knowledge passed on in these forums is second to none. You top notch professionals just keep on selflessly passing down your knowledge so that us "newbies" and (not so newbies) can learn these procedures with far less trial and error to which I'm sure alot of you had to endure. It's tutorials like this one that give me the inspiration to carry on with knifemaking!
For all this I would like to say a resounding:

THANKK YOU!

Vince

[Don Cowles]

Great job, Terry.

I do have a question. When you first glue the mortised halves together with a "bonding agent", is that epoxy? If so, I wonder how you prevent getting glue squeezeout in the mortise itself, which could prevent the tang from going in properly.

[Coutel]

Thats an excellant tutorial and I am keen to give it a go (with chisels).
Don raises an interesting question which could cause problems if not careful so I too would be interested to know how you deal with that.

Thanks.

Kevin.

[Terry Primos]

That's something I probably need to add. First, the bonding agent I use is Zap-A-Gap, one of the many bonding agents whose primary ingredient is cyanoacrylate. Super Glue works just fine.

Now, as for the application, I have used two methods, and both work great.

You can put a small bead just on the inside edge of the slabs, away from the slot, and press them together around the tang to line things up, then clamp, and pull the tang out. With the small bead just on the inside edge (maybe 1/16" of so), the bonding agent does not get squeezed into the mortise joint.

Method two is to fit the handle to the tang, clamp to line up, remove the tang, and run a bead around the outside of the joint. The cyanoacrylate penetrates just enough to hold everything together.

The purpose is not to form the permanent bond at this point. You just need everything to stick together well until you get the handle epoxied on. Then, even the epoxy is not depended upon to hold the handle on. It is primarily to seal and protect the tang, with the added benefit of a strong bond. The mechanical bond which is later formed with pins or bolts is what makes it all permanent.

By the way, since I started doing it this way, I have yet to find a material that it wouldn't work on. I've done stabilized woods, naturally stable woods like Arizona Desert Ironwood, super dense woods like African Blackwood, Micarta, Giraffe bone, etc., etc. It works with everything. The one in the tutorial is Ring Gidgee. It worked great on that too.

[Tbrown]

Mortised Haves
I used about 3 of super glue small drops 1each side front where the tang slides in 1drop on backthis will hold everthing together.
then i can fit everthing up.when it all fit .i them break it a part.
I use a glue called hot stuff small amout slid on tang clampup . rmove tang let dry then it ready to insatll and finnish.
Troy Brown
A.B.S. Joureyman Smith
http://www.elkcreekforge.com

[Mike Hull]

Very nice, thanks.

[Bob Sigmon]

Terry,

Once again, a great tutorial!

Thanks for taking the time. I know that I'll be using this technique (modified for stainless). And now I have another use for the mill! I love finding new things to use my machines for.

Bob Sigmon

[Roger Gregory]

Excellent tutorial Terry, thanks for putting that together

Many of us follow the tutorials and the added hints and tips from the other knifemakers who add their say, and we owe you all some thanks. Sharing knowledge and spending your time helping people is 'the knifemaker way' but it isn't taken for granted.

By the way, nice knife in that tutorial too, but then you knew that

Roger

[whv]

another great tutorial, terry! thanx for taking the time, and for the great photos that add so much to the text.
one question. i have heard of the use of parallels setting up for mill work, but don't know how to use them. do you use these or do you just make sure that the top surface of the slab is level to the machine bed before you set the depth of the end mill?
tia

[Terry Primos]

This is embarrassing. No, I don't have any parallels. I just eyeball it.

[C.M. Arrington]

Terry, thanks for the tutorial. That answered a lot of questions. Thanks again for finding the time to put it together for us.

[BrianT]

Terry

Thanks for the time and effort you put into helping the rest of us. I have two slabs of "Fantasy Marble Pearl" that I might have to give this a try on.

Thanks again
Brian

[bgmills]

Terry, I just loved your tutorial on the mortised tangs!! I wondered how you did that. Your work and style just floor me!! I simply LOVE your knives!!! I also enjoyed your "solderless guard" tutorial! These are two how-to's I am definitely going to employ on my first project. I don't have a mill so I will use the chisel method. Just curiosity, what type of mill do you have, and do you like/recommend it? It amazes me the time you and others give to these forums to help others. Once again, thanks, and keep making those jewels!! Bill.

[jbgatlin]

If you do not have a mill but have a Dremel-type tool, you can purchase the router attachment and get good results. Use a 1/8" straight bit as the 1/4" is more difficult to control. Regards, Brett