Old school 10.25 inch fighter ebony scales, steel bolsters

[Kenhills]

Hi All,

Here is new style of fighter I am now making for sale. 10.25 inches overall, 5.5 inch blade forward of the front bolster and 1 3/8 inches wide at it?s widest. Legally harvested Black Ebony scales and red spacers.The handle is 1/2 inch thick at the bolsters and widens to 7/8 inch at the center about 1 inch high in the middle. Six 1/8th inch brass pins complete the bolsters and handle.

Hollow ground on a 10 inch wheel and very sharp. False upper but it is used to carry the meat of the blade to the tip. Sometimes this is called a penetrator blade. Both the blade and the bolsters are made from Aldo's 3/16ths 1084. The blade is hardened and triple tempered to a Rockwell 60. (Cant say enough of the man and his knowledge not to mention his inventory.) Blade is finished to a mirror finish the rest to a very high satin. All in all I am very pleased with how this one came out. Knives made like this with front and back bolsters are kind of old school. They are a lot of work to make.

Price $175.00 shipped to the lower 48.

If you want a Kydex sheath let me know and we will work something out. I think it deserves leather something I don?t currently work in. If you work in leather and want to team up get back to me. The last picture shows the next knife up it is next to the almost finished fighter its going to be a 3 inch camp or bush knife with dark brown rosewood scales. Should be ready by Tuesday. If you are interested let me know.























Thanks for looking. Comments always appreciated. Ken

[jes4e]

Great looking knife. Since you asked for comments, I have a few for you to consider. You might think about rounding all of your edges, on the inside part of the handle for sure. From the pictures they look almost sharp. try using it to chop some wood and you will see where it needs to be rounded by the hot spots it will leave in your hand. Also you should think about getting some 416 stainless for your boulsters. It takes way less effort to shape and sand then the 1084, and you can buy 416 pins that will all but dissapear when you finish the knife. Some like the two tone brass and silver look, but its just somthing to thik about. And lastly it might be a good idea to get a logo stamp made up with your name and state that you are making them out of. You can keep the same mark that you are using now, but without your name, if someone saw a picture of your work, they would have no way of finding out who the maker was.
I am not critisizing your work, but just offering some advice that was given to me by a world famous knife maker. Keep up the good work, your stuff keeps getting better and better with every knife that you make.

[Kenhills]

Thanks for the input. The edged are not sharp its just the pictures but they are not heavely contoured either. I will look into the 416 but the KMG machine with the right belts shapes them pretty quick actually to quick if I am not careful. The stamp with my name on it has come up before and I guess its time to do something about it. Any suggestions as to who is making them for the right price out of the right metal ? Ken

[jes4e]

I get mine from http://erniesknives.com
I use the personalizer plus to do an electro chem etch. you can contact him thru the website link above. He can take a drawing of what you want and adjust it to what ever size you need.
As far as the metal stamps, I have never used one, but i'm sure that with a quick google search you should be able to find someone who could do it for you. I think they say that A2 is good for dies, and stamps, but I could be wrong.
The reason I suggested 416 is because you can peen it in to fill in those small gaps between the handle and the boulster/guard, it just smooshes in there and you can hide the pins that hold the boulsters together. It's alot softer than the 1084. Just somthing I thought I would mention.

[miketheknife]

http://www.harpermfg.com/hm_customknife.html

One quick google search and this popped up.

Nice looking knife BTW.

Mike