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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #16  
Old 12-05-2007, 07:41 PM
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Gary,
Try lowering the temperature for the HT. What are you quenching in?? 1095 works well but the lower C steels will be easier. Take a run through Don Fogg's website. He has a great page on heat treating. It does take a lot of practice though. I wish I had this forum when I was learning HT. It took me almost 4 yrs to get it so I was comfortable. I still have my problems but just work through them.

Chuck


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  #17  
Old 12-05-2007, 10:12 PM
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I got my best results on 1095 by cutting a paper patteren of the blade then drawing off the hamon.I then cut it out of the paper.This gives me a paper hamon,when layed on the blade the paper will be your hamon.Next I place masking tape on a sheet of glass use the paper as a stencil I then cut the paper shape out of tape and place the tape on the blade.(flip paper over and do the same to the other side.I cover the exposed metal with satinite extra thick at the tape line.then remove the tape carefully and I have exactly the same patern on both sides.next I coat the exposed hamon with a vert thin coat of satinite.I next make thin lines of sat. from my heavy hamon line to the edge about 3/8 " apart. I use a torch to heat the edge to critical.I then edge quinch to just above the hamon in 130 deg peanut oil.keep rocking the blade into the oil point to blade until the clay cools (takes about 15 min.)This helps keep residual heat from the clay covered blade from creaping into the hamon.I do leave the edge about the width of a penny.I hope this helps.


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  #18  
Old 12-06-2007, 08:21 AM
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Chuck,

I heated (soaked) at 1450 which is what I use when oil quenching. I thought that this had worked on the full blade blank but as stated ealier, the cracks were internal in the area of the edge of the clay coat. Makes you wonder doesn't it?

Gary
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  #19  
Old 12-08-2007, 11:49 PM
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Manganese content will have ALOT to do with a traditional hamon, less the better for that


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  #20  
Old 12-10-2007, 02:47 PM
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Kevin Cashen told me that ready mix furnace cement is the easiest way to go. I have only done one blade with a hamon and it turned out ok. I was W2 and I didn't soak it long enough in the forge so I had a lot of alloy banding above the line. I just bought a Paragon oven, so that problem is fixed. For my next try, I am going to coat the blade with anti-scale and then apply the clay over that before soaking/quenching. I did that with antil scale below the clay abd the edge turned out great.......but under the clay was pretty gnarly by comparison, so i still had to do a bunch of sanding....lol. Wish me luck


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  #21  
Old 12-10-2007, 07:27 PM
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jdm61 let me know how that turns out. I've been putting on the clay then the anti scale myself.

-Mike Sheffield


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  #22  
Old 12-11-2007, 02:40 PM
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How about this for a hamon on a scrap blade of 1095. It is a little high on the blade, but it was only controled by the thickness of the steel.




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  #23  
Old 12-11-2007, 06:31 PM
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She sure is pretty!

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  #24  
Old 12-11-2007, 08:54 PM
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Now that is awsome.


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  #25  
Old 12-11-2007, 09:51 PM
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I hope this works. this is just a water quenched 1095 blade.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg switch blade bowie.jpg (18.4 KB, 30 views)


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  #26  
Old 12-11-2007, 10:26 PM
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Harry,

I would love to know what process you used to get that carbide segregation?? I am also wondering what the source was for the 1095 you used??

Thank you
Chuck


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  #27  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:22 PM
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We found this out a few years ago by accident and have done it a few times because the customers seem to like it.

Just heat treat a blade of 1095. We have used it from several sources and it doesn't seem to make any difference. The thing we did next was etch it in hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid used in cleaning bricks, Lowe?s) this is strong stuff and you need to be careful. We have tried it on several different heat treated blades and it doesn't seem to mind what the hardness is, as it will show up on both sides of the hamon line. I think that it is the strong etch actually eating away at the steel that brings the pattern out. We don't normally use Hydrochloric acid because it is not necessary to get an etch that will show what we want. Ferric chloride or vinegar work just fine if what you are looking for is the quench line. It looks kind of cool, and the customers like it.

We are careful to not make any claims about the steel other than what it is (heat treated 1095 with a strong etch) and always mark the blades with the type of steel so that it won't be easy for someone to misrepresent it down the road.


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  #28  
Old 12-12-2007, 12:08 AM
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Thanks for showing the nice bowie Bill. Do you have any tips for managing a water quench?

Thanks also Harry for explaining your pattern. You gonna patent it? (j/k)

Take care, Craig
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  #29  
Old 12-12-2007, 07:45 AM
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It will be the next patent I apply for, after I get the one on making a knife out of a file. I'm one of those that believes that a patent on a process that has existed in basically the same form for a couple of thousand years might be hard to defend. If you can't defend a patent it's not worth spit. It could end up costing you a lot of money defending counter suits that would also be hard to defend. In this case, people have been doing this for years and wondering what happened to their polish. Most people probably would rather know how to avoid it. I still think it looks good, but then I never have cared much for a shinny, mirror polished blade.

I haven't found very many short cuts to wealth in any business. Mostly it is hard work, providing a good product at a fair price, convincing people that they want it, and standing behind what you make. Above all being honest in all you do. The snake oil salesman might make it for a while, but in the end he will be found out for what he is and the road to the bottom can be short and painful.


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  #30  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:13 AM
Wade Holloway Wade Holloway is offline
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Harry have you tried that with any other carbon steels or any stainless? Just curious. Oh how long to you put the blade in the acid for? And I am assuming that it is probaly one of the last thing you do to the blade.
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