Stick Tang KITH

[Ray Rogers]

Interesting. I've never seen it done that way but I have seen a longer tang used with a keyhole on the end and a short bolt set into the keyhole. Same concept, different implementation ...

[damon]

I like this idea. just wish I was smart enough to have come up with it.

[Icho]

That's pretty cool Steve. I've seen the same idea but with a nut on the end of the rod. I like Ray's version also. I will have to try one of these ways on my next hidden tang. I have been clamping a sacrificial piece of scrap metal on both sides of the tang so I can drill and tap the end and screw the threaded rod in but it is a bit of a pain. Will you be silver brazing it before assembly or is that even necessary?

[mwhuston]

I was thinking of peening the end. Does it have to be a hidden tang?

Also, if I use stacked leather, does it require a specific leather or can I use something acquired locally?

[Ray Rogers]

Quote: Does it have to be a hidden tang?

I can't think of a way to make a stacked leather handle that wouldn't be a hidden tang. For this KITH you don't have to use leather but the tang does have to be hidden - the point of this KITH is to get people who haven't done a hidden tang to try one.

You can use any leather you wish ....

[SVanderkolff]

Here is today's progress. First off the argon in the kiln worked great, no scale no foil. The blade has been heat treated, it tested out at 58 Rockwell. The stacked leather was a real messy job and I learned that you shouldn't make up all the epoxy you expect to use at once. It starts to set long before you are done. And I was using 24 hour epoxy. I hope the Vaseline that I coated the threaded rod with works, I need to be able to remove the rod that is in there and replace it with the keyholed rod.
That's it for today.
Steve

[Kevster]

Steve, did you use leftover sheath pieces? I'm going to try the stacked leather myself. Also did you epoxy each piece? If so I can see it taking a while to get it done.

[mwhuston]

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers

Quote: Does it have to be a hidden tang?

I can't think of a way to make a stacked leather handle that wouldn't be a hidden tang. For this KITH you don't have to use leather but the tang does have to be hidden - the point of this KITH is to get people who haven't done a hidden tang to try one.

You can use any leather you wish ....

Sorry Ray, I don't think I was clear. I meant do I have to use a screw type end cap or can I peen a piece of metal on top of my leather stack or use a hidden tang in a block of wood?

Does that make sense?

[SVanderkolff]

Yes I used left over sheath leather, all the same thickness. There was a thread with a how to that I found. I did epoxy between each layer but not too much.

[Ray Rogers]

You can peen the butt cap if you want to but I think a screw type works better in most instances. A wood handle can be used but I want to emphasize terminology here: this KITH is about stick tangs which have a butt cap (either peened or screwed on). Technically, a stick tang is a hidden but usually when I think of a hidden tang knife I think of knives with pinned handles like most of the knives I make. Those knives have hidden tangs but no butt cap and for this KITH we want a butt cap.

I'm using scrap sheath leather on mine too. If you have a strap cutter its easy to cut the scrap pieces into short straps and the cut the straps into pieces of equal length. Seems like an efficient way to make use of the scrap and its been working well for me so far ...

[ranger1]

Think I'll try a Dagger. I have never made one. I like the style of a Randall #2. With stacked leather handle. Maybe Bronze furniture. I have a big chunck of bronze I have never used.
W2 , Bronze and stacked leather. Should be nice or a total disaster ........LOL

[SVanderkolff]

When I was at the Canadian Knifemakers guild show earlier this month I was talking to Mr Des Horn of South Africa. Truly a gentleman. He was explaining how he used EDM stones instead of sandpaper for his hand sanding. He found it much quicker and much easier. Having now tried it for the first time I have to agree. I bought a series of stones from the company that he recommended in Michigan, Mold & Dies Technology, since they will sell you individual stones. Started with 320 grit then moved to 400 then 600 then 900. Surprisingly easy. He recommended the AM series of stones since they break down enough that they take the contour of the blade fairly quickly. I got the 1/2 X 1/4 size. Anyways just thought I would share another option.
Steve

[mwhuston]

Ray. I have read the heat treat preparation project. Can I use 1080+ from AKS? Do you want the knife to follow the pattern in heat prep or a blade from this KITH?

[ranger1]

Steve, can we get a link to where you purchased those stones ? I have also heard stones work moch better than paper
Andy

[Ray Rogers]

Mark,

Please use the pattern shown in the KITH Heat Treat Prep thread. The 1080+ will be fine. Send me an email when you have it ready and I'll send you my address....