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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:11 AM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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Making a Lined Pouch Sheath by Paul Long

This is per a request of a fellow forum member asking about a lined sheath. Here's Paul Long's tutorial on how he makes his beautiful lined sheaths.

1. The Hydra arrives






2. The hydra design and resulting pattern






3. Patterns transferred to rough cut leather pieces






4. Welt cut to shape with wedge installed; Sheath body split and inlay windows cut out






5. Inlay placed and stitched into sheath body. This inlay is Ostrich Leg






6. Rough shape sheath with inlays and clip completely installed.






7. Glue split sheath body pieces back together.






8. Cut the rough sheath to final shape; Wedge welt is finished here too.






Continued....
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  #2  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:19 AM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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9. Top stitch lining at the roll






10. Lining trimmed at roll ready for glue up






11. Ready to trim installed roll lining around the edges








12. Decorative tooling layout; beveled and partially stamped; maker's mark and recipient's initials and date made.






13. Glue in the welt and put JB Weld in the tip. The dark color in the tip is the JB Weld. Note the light colored area around the edge where the deer skin has bee skived back to keep it from showing on the finished edges.






14. The whole sheath is glued up and assembled and the final edge stitched on the big machine (Artisan Toro 4000).






15. Finish the edges, apply the neatsfoot oil finish, TanKote sealer and the NeatLac and as soon as everything levels out and the true color comes up it's finished. This sheath will be lighter in color tone and no splotches at all.

The finished product...

Last edited by Dave Kelly; 03-27-2007 at 02:33 PM.
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  #3  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:36 AM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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Some additional text by Paul that I thought should be included in this tutorial,

Pay particular attention to photos 9, 10 11 and 12

Lay the cut out front of the sheath grain side (good side, face, whatever you call it) onto the grain side of the lining material. (face to face) Then stitch the top line of the sheath around the throat and up that same side of the belt loop if it's a butterfly pouch pattern. Then with an exacto or similar knife trim the excess that is above the throat line of the sheath off. This leaves you with the two pieces stitched at the top face to face. Then apply contact cement probably two coats to the flesh side of the sheath piece. This is the only time you work before the contact cement sets up real tacky. While the contact cement is still fairly green apply a coat to the flesh side of the lining material and wait a minute or two. The pull the lining material back over itself and over onto the flesh side of the sheath piece , stretching the wrinkles out as you go, particularly over the rolled top at the throat of the sheath. When you are satisfied and all the wrinkles are gone tap the whole shootin' match with a smooth hammer to set the two pieces. Now trim the excess with the exacto all the way around the unrolled area. On the lining side, then skive back from the non rolled edges about 1/4 inch exposing the veg. tan leather on the flesh side of the front piece. This is so the soft lining will not screw up your pretty finished edges after you get the whole thing built.
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  #4  
Old 03-27-2007, 01:41 PM
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Zimba Zimba is offline
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tnx
good tutorial
will try something like this later
LJ
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2007, 06:11 PM
T-Wolf T-Wolf is offline
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reminds me of the one Paul did for a wc auction knife of mine.The man really does great work.thx Dave


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  #6  
Old 07-24-2008, 08:16 PM
SDS SDS is offline
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I realize this is an old thread but I have a couple of questions that maybe someone can answer.

1-what is used for the lining? I have read deer skin but the deerskin that I have is fairly thick and seems like it would be too thick for this application.

2-What is the purpose of the JB weld at the bottom/inside of the sheath?

Thanks,
SDS
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  #7  
Old 07-25-2008, 09:14 PM
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jhn cohea jhn cohea is offline
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Just saw this thread for the first time. Great info here. Could this possibly be made a sticky so that it would always be easily available?


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  #8  
Old 07-25-2008, 11:56 PM
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TexasJack TexasJack is offline
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SDS, I was going to let others answer, but so far none has.

I suspect any number of leathers could be used for the liner. I've seen some very thin buckskin, though you say that what you have is pretty thick. The local Tandy store told me they sell quite a bit of pig skin for liners.

The epoxy was put in the bottom of the sheath to make sure the knife didn't slice through. Chuck Burrows has said he doesn't think it necessary. Given the expertise of Chuck and Paul, it would seem that the epoxy is optional and I'd just leave it as that.

Paul makes some beautiful sheaths! Really nice guy as well.

I am constantly in awe of the work Paul, Chuck, and Sandy turn out, and just as awed by their willingness to help the rest of us.


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  #9  
Old 07-26-2008, 01:39 AM
SDS SDS is offline
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TexasJack, thanks for the reply. I've certainly learned a lot from everyone here and the one very brief dealing I had with Mr. Long was very pleasant.

I was working on a sheath yesterday that I had considered lining but without haveing a better understanding of all of the parts I just did it my old standby way.

Knowing what I do now I will look for some thinner buckskin and/or pigskin to play around with.

I thought the reason you gave for the JB weld might be what it was for but wasn't sure. I've never had a knife slice through the welt but I guess it would be possible. My only concern would be dulling of the blade where it contacts the JB weld. I realize this must not be a big concern if Mr. Long uses it though.

Thank you for your thoughts.
SDS
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  #10  
Old 07-26-2008, 08:15 PM
Sandy Morrissey Sandy Morrissey is offline
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Posts like this remind me that I am never too old to learn. Now if only I can stick around long enough to put it to use!!!


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  #11  
Old 07-26-2008, 10:58 PM
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sheathmaker sheathmaker is offline
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Man this really is an old thread. About the JB Weld....I don't use it on each and every sheath, but on knives with a very sharp point that also have little or no guard, there could be an accidental "over insertion" in which case the JB Weld does in fact protect the toe of the sheath from pentration in this case. If there is a guard or some other part of the knife whereby an effective stop can be built into the body or shape of the sheath then the JB weld is not used.

The lining material I use whether deer skin or cowhide is maxed out at 3 oz. weight. It is really pretty thin. The reason for the deer skin preference is that it has a nice stretch to it and can be pulled down really snug on the interior and very tight on the rolled lip to avoid any wrinkles at all. It is, of course fully secured with 100% coverage using barge contact cement so once it is in with no wrinkles, it's there to stay.

If there are any further questions I will be happy to respond to email or phone call as well as here (as soon as I find it).

Paul


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  #12  
Old 07-26-2008, 11:02 PM
SDS SDS is offline
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I realize it's an old thread, I'm a bit behind the curve on the leather part of my knifemaking. I try to search old threads before bugging everyone with questions that have most likely been answered before.

Your explanation of why you use the JB Weld makes plenty of sense now that you have explained it.

Thanks to everyone for responding.
SDS

PS-Mr. Long, e-mail inbound.
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  #13  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:45 AM
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I think we're all just amazed that someone actually searched for information and read an existing thread without having to be prompted!!

I hope no one thinks I was disparaging Paul's use of JB Weld. I know at least one knifemaker that does the same (ever since one of his knives went through the sheath and cut out a chunk of a Humvee seat.) I just wanted to point out that it's an option, not necessarily a requirement. Paul's explanation reads a lot better than mine, and it shows the level of quality that Paul puts into his sheaths. He not only designs it to look good, but to give solid performance with the knife it was designed for.

I should have also mentioned that Dave Kelly is no slouch when it comes to making sheaths, as well as some beautiful knives!


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  #14  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:28 PM
Dennis Paish Dennis Paish is offline
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Greetings,
This is a real old thread, but the information is well worth re-visiting.

This is my first time reviewing this post.

Question, how is the top roll done? Can someone add more pictures or an explanation how it is done? It maybe an easy concept, but I do not get how the roll stays secure.

Regards,

Dennis Paish
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2012, 07:28 PM
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cordless101 cordless101 is offline
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Dave Kelly

Some additional text by Paul that I thought should be included in this tutorial,

Pay particular attention to photos 9, 10 11 and 12

Lay the cut out front of the sheath grain side (good side, face, whatever you call it) onto the grain side of the lining material. (face to face) Then stitch the top line of the sheath around the throat and up that same side of the belt loop if it's a butterfly pouch pattern. Then with an exacto or similar knife trim the excess that is above the throat line of the sheath off. This leaves you with the two pieces stitched at the top face to face. Then apply contact cement probably two coats to the flesh side of the sheath piece. This is the only time you work before the contact cement sets up real tacky. While the contact cement is still fairly green apply a coat to the flesh side of the lining material and wait a minute or two. The pull the lining material back over itself and over onto the flesh side of the sheath piece , stretching the wrinkles out as you go, particularly over the rolled top at the throat of the sheath. When you are satisfied and all the wrinkles are gone tap the whole shootin' match with a smooth hammer to set the two pieces. Now trim the excess with the exacto all the way around the unrolled area. On the lining side, then skive back from the non rolled edges about 1/4 inch exposing the veg. tan leather on the flesh side of the front piece. This is so the soft lining will not screw up your pretty finished edges after you get the whole thing built.

See Dave Kelly's post above. After sewing the liner to the top it is trimmed and cemented, then folded over onto the onto the flesh side. Then skived, cemented together and sewn. Charlie
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