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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Bush Hog Blade Steel Type
Hey guys,
I've been searching and reading around the other forums and have found some answers, but they vary. I wanted to get some opinions here. I have a good amount of bush hog blades and was wondering if anyone knew what type of steel they were. 5160? Or is it close to 1095 or something. Thanks for any help. |
#2
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That's why we usually advise staying away from salvaged steel, at least until you have enough experience to evaluate it for yourself - nobody can answer your question with absolute certainty.
If you knew what year they were made and who made them then the manufacturer might be able to say what they were. Once upon a time, such tools could be fairly reliably called 1095 or maybe 5160 but that was quite a long time ago. Nowadays, and for decades past, factories use whatever is cheapest or available when they need to order steel. So, if you insist on using salvaged steel you'll need to test it very carefully yourself to figure out if it will make a suitable blade or not. You still won't know what it is but you'll have a fair idea about what quality of blade it can produce. Most likely, they will make fair blades no matter what steel they are but that's about as much as you're ever likely to know about them except that, in all likelihood, it will cost you more to make a blade from them than it would to buy some known blade steel .... |
#3
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As always Ray, you sweep in with sound advice. I have no idea when this BushHog blade was made. I would have to assume in the past few years since it just came off of a newer assembly.
I think I may heed your advice and stick to Aldo or Jantz for my steel supply. I may use this so practice my forging/hammering. Thanks Ray. |
#4
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Think it through a bit and you will eliminate the 1095 possibility. Bush hog blades are a high impact cutter, later basher. Never a really serious cutting blade per say in regards to knife suitable steel. I would imagine most are made from "M" series steel to reduce the potential for shattering on impact with rocks and other hard stuff.
Possibly 5160, but not all that likely either. As Ray said you're not going to know for sure without lab analysis - worth it? Not really, too many good known blade steels at reasonable prices to do that, especially if it turns out non-usable. Could probably use them to make some fairly decent hawks and axes, but my guess it would not make a decent knifeblade for your trouble. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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I see now Crex. Thanks for the explanation. Yea that's way too much trouble to do lab testing and such when I can just shoot on over to Aldo or Jantz.
It's funny you mention it I was looking at doing a tomahawk out of it. Try at least. I just got a new anvil. Attended a hammer in and wanted to use some new stuff I learned. You think it would be decent for axe/hawk? |
#6
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You think it would be decent for axe/hawk?
Only way to find out for sure is to give it a go. Should have good impact resistance, it's the edge holding ability that's in question. I would forge out the bit section close to finish and do a partial quench and inch or so up the bit, put a handle in it and proceed to try and wear it out on some oak or hickory. You'll know soon enough. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#7
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Dealing with these blades on a daily basis I would say they would have a good edge holding ability if the heat treat is rite they will bend or roll the edge in standard form but you probably don't hit as hard as a 100 horsepower tractor
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#8
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I think the question here is figuring the correct heattreatment for an unknown alloy. All of the bushhog blades I have seen are "massive" compared to a knife or hawk. After the first few contacts with dirt, sand, grave and rock, they don't have an "edge" and rely mostly on speed and mass to accomplish their job (that's not long out of the box in the bushhog world).
Liability issues have dictated a change up in alloys used for cutting blades for mowers and bushhogs (and even chainsaw chains), from best edge holding/cutting ability to non-breakable, less apt to injur. The economy of the thing is to go to a more suitable alloy than to change heat treatment on a "work hardenable" steel used in most other cutlery. Not arguing here Fuzzy, just my experience in the timber harvesting industry. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#9
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thinking about it a sharp bush hog blade is one sixteenth rounded over that usually doesn't last long but they do wear a long time a half inch thick edge on a hawk would be overkill?
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Tags |
1095, 5160, advice, anvil, axe, bee, blade, blades, edge, forge, forging, hammer, handle, hawk, heat treat, help., knife, made, make, steel, supply, tomahawk, tools |
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