sealer?

I have read that wood handles should be sealed. I have also read about using super glue to coat knife handles. I tried it and it worked great. Does the super glue act as a sealant? Thanks.

A pretty good one if its done right.
It does not stand up to heavy buffing well.

Thanks

I'll add that stabilized wood does not need to be sealed; just sanded out and buffed.

Super glue-finished wood handles (see Scott Slobodian's work for magnificent examples) shine like glass, but I would not recommend them for using knives since they will scratch or chip fairly easily.

From reading the forum it looks like stabalized wood is the way to go. I know I have seen a thread that explains what the stabalizing process is but can't seem to find it. I can get kiln dried cocobolo and satinwood from a local retail lumber yard. It is a bunch cheaper than buying blocks. But if it fails after it is on the knife it isn't such a bargan.
I guess my question is can I seal a wood handle well enough (without the vaccuum apparatus) to be able to have faith it will hold together and still retain a nice finish?
The question kinda grew.
Thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge.

I highly recommend using oils for finishing woodhandles. I use dansih oil and like it very much. Gives the wood carracter and it ages beatyful. The more you use a handle with oilfinish the more beatyful it gets. It is also more natural which I like over the plastic like feeling stabilized wood have.

I tend to agree Anso. Oil finishes, topped off with a well rubbed coat of wax age gracefuly, and can be easily maintained. The slick lacquer/epoxy gloss finishes, although much harder, still don't stand much handling with out scratching and hazing, and very quickly start to look cheap. They can be rubbed out to a certain extent, but ultimately will have to be stripped and redone to keep that high peerfect finish. Same issues as fine wood gun stocks, high gloss lacquer/epoxy vs oil finish. For an exhibition piece that is not handled much, its not as important. Its a different aesthetic also, like Whetherby Vs classic gun stocks.

I use Tung OIL, with a double application. I allow 12 hours between coats in the winter and 8 hours during the hotter months.
KEN (WWJD)

Hi guys
Jens, tell me more about the Danish Oil. I presently use Linseed oil on Curly Maple and love it but I am always open for new ideas to try
Scott

I use the following mixture to seal tool handles and as a general finish. Holds up well, fairly flexible film. To minimize blotching, apply a coat of shellac first on woods such as pine, cherry and mohagany.

1 oz raw linseed oil
3 oz tung oil [100%]
11 1/2 oz Gum Turpentine
1/2 oz Japan Drier

(All measures are liquid U.S. measure, but as long as proportions are followed, it will work. Fast metric conversion, 15ml per U.S. liquid ounce.)

Sand lightly between coats with 220 or 320 grit, needs 24-72 hours to dry, depending on temp/humidity. Coats will build fairly quickly, a six-coat finish should be nicely glossy.Sand with 600 grit prior to final coat. Carnauba wax gives a harder finish, beeswax a softer one.

The components can be had from a good paint store, most of the chain stores like Home Depot and Lowe's don't stock them.

Mineral spirits can be substituted for the turpentine, but will require more coats, as turps has a quantity of solids that help coating.

From my research as a woodworker, this is similar to what was used by 18th century cabinet makers such as Hepplewhite and Sheraton. It will resist alcohol to a good extent, and is reasonably waterproof, if the film is intact. Easily repaired with light sanding and re-application.

Leon Jester
LJ WoodWorks
Roanoke, Virginia