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General ::: Items and Bargains Good deals on useful items for sale by Knife Network members |
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#1
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Plans for 2"x72" Knife Grinder/Sander No welding required
No Weld Grinder/Sander Plans (NWGS)
No Weld Grinder/Sander with Flat Platen attachment and adjustable tool table rest By Tracy Mickley Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.midwestknifemakers.com These printed plans are for a 2? x 72? belt grinder or sander. The construction requires no welding, no machining, no lathe work, no precision thread tapping, no special tools. Purchase these plans HERE Plans are just $25 These are paper plans and will be mailed to you via US First Class Mail upon purchase. Just to be sure, this is not for an actual grinder or any part of grinder. This listing is for plans that you can use to construct your own grinder/sander using your materials. This grinder design uses tool arms to change from a contact wheel to a flat platen to a small wheel to slack belt attachment in seconds. If you have a KMG grinder from Beaumont Metals already, you can use the tools from that grinder in your NWGS. Features:
Grinder with 8" contact wheel and tool table rest. The tool table rest can be removed in 2 seconds. I use a setup very much like this to grind my hollow ground knives. The printed assembly manual contains: 15 pages of detailed CAD drawings with measurements and materials lists on each drawing. You could easily build the entire NWGS from these CAD drawings. In addition to the CAD drawings, there is a 28 page construction manual with:
Tools Required: A metal band saw is very helpful as is a drill press. If you don?t have a band saw, you can get the heavier material cut to size for a nominal charge (usually around $2 to $3 a cut after the first cut) from the metal supplier. A hand hack saw can handle most of the cuts. If you don?t have a drill press, you can use a variable speed hand drill. A carpenters square. A tape measure, a scribe point, assorted drill bits (actually just 4 drill bits ? 1/8?, 5/16?, 3/8? and ??), a 3/8?-16 tap and tap wrench. A Unibit? (step drill bit) works exceptionally well in this project as a supplement to your regular drill bits or even in place of them. Cutting/tapping lubricant (oil will work but cutting lubricant works better). A rotary tool such as a Dremmel? tool (or hand file to) cut 2ea 1? x 3/16? key way slots. Hand wrench or adjustable wrenches to tighten bolts. You can see the tools required are very modest and simple. |
#2
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Sweet looking set up! If I did not allready have two grinders I would try this one.
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#3
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That's cool as hell Tracy! I think I gotta have one!
What is the total build expense minus contact wheel and motor? May I assume the wheels and bearings come from Beaumont? __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#4
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Congratulations, Tracy! I'm happy to see all your efforts with this project come to fruition.
I hope Tracy doesn't mind me pitching his business: Andrew, while Tracy mentions several sources in his directions, I think it would be cool if people making this took the time to price the components Tracy has available. http://www.midwestknifemakers.com/vc...3f6841afdd17d2 Last edited by fitzo; 09-03-2007 at 12:12 AM. |
#5
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Andrew: Those are Beamont Metals wheels. I am now a reseller for these. You can get them either from Rob or me. I haven't done a detailed cost of build but see that I need to. I just know it's cheaper than anything out there and a guy can scrounge some of this for scrap price.
Mike: Thanks again brother. You take care of me. |
#6
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Tracy,
Just another question before I commit... Can a guy move up to larger contact wheels--If so, how big? (I realy want a 14"). __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#7
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Andrew,
I didn't design for a 14" wheel but it can be done easily enough. The 14" does not have bearings like the smaller wheels do. You have to use a shaft to mount the wheel to with locking collars and then a couple of pillow blocks mounted to a tool arm. Rob can sell you the whole thing. I don't carry the 14" wheels at this time since I didn't think there would be much of a call for them. If you decide to go with one, let me know. I have one myself and can easily work out the plan for that. I am a resller for Beaumont Metals Wheels so you will find them on my web site as well as Rob's. I spent a little time working up some costs. It isn't as simple as here is what it costs to make. I wish it was. Here you go: This is my best effort to estimate costs for building this grinder. The costs listed for the motor?s are what I paid locally. The costs for the metal are from the charges I incurred locally when purchasing metal for this project. Your costs will probably vary on this slightly but this metal is very competitive business and is surprisingly cheap. The costs for the wheels are what I sell them for on my own web site (www.midwestkms.com) and are accurate at this time. This isn?t a guarantee of the costs, it?s only a reflection of what I paid when I designed and built this grinder (several times) in the summer of 2007. No tool costs are taken into account but you probably have nearly all the tools already, even in a modest shop. Cost Projections Break Down: Plans = $25 You will save $25 for the plans cost just by avoiding trial error that I went through building your own grinder. Basic frame Metal with connecting hardware for the frame and all attachments = $75 Misc ? knobs, bushings, etc = $25 Pillow Block Bearings 5/8? $12.50x2 = $25 Total Frame and all metal for attachments = $125 full plans build (no wheels) Minimal build flat platen attachment only = $60 Note: Attachments include tool table rest, flat platen, slack belt, contact wheel arms. This is for new metal from the metal yard (scrap) yard. Most scrap yards will let you walk around and find metal they will charge you ?surplus? price which is less than a dollar a pound. Wheels for the platen and slack belt attachments are listed below. Save $15 by using bolts for knobs. Wheels 8? contact wheel -$235 (smaller wheels cost less, bigger wheels cost more) 4ea 2?x2? idler wheels for a platen and slack belt attachment ($40ea) - $160 Power Drive Wheel 4? wheel 5/8? shaft bore w/keyway slot - $48 Tracking Wheel 3.5? x 2.5? with ?? bore with bearings - $53.00 Wheels total cost all attachments = $496 Wheels minimal with just a platen = $80 Note: These are high quality wheels from Beaumont Metals. Rob Frink allowed me to become a reseller for Beaumont Metals wheels. All wheels include the bearings. Initially this doesn?t sound like much but it is when you cost them out. Of course, you don?t have to build the entire grinder to begin with and the wheels are more than half the cost so you can really keep the price down if you just build a flat platen for $80 in wheels. If you find another source for wheels cheaper, let me know. I looked, I don?t think you will ? but I?m entitled to be wrong. I am also a dealer for Contact Rubber Corp and the retail of these contact wheels I have listed is less than my dealer cost from Contact Rubber Corp. To my knowledge, no one is selling idler, power drive or tracking wheels like these. Power Train: Motor 1.5hp - $160 new $25 to $75 used. Pulleys 3 step pair for $31 Power Twist Link Belt 2? $14 Switch, wire, connectors, tape, switch box - $15 Extension cord for a power cord - $10 Power Train with new motor = $230 Power Train used motor = $100 I bought a used rebuilt motor for $75 for one prototype by checking the local motor repair places. I made no effort beyond that. There are lot?s of motors out there and you should be able to find a used or pull for well under a hundred dollars. There is NO good reason to save $20 here to go with a single speed pulley setup when a 3 speed can be had using the triple pulley setup for $31. Plans and full build, all the bells and whistles. Every thing new, all attachments and 3 speed pulley setup = $876 Plans and a minimal build, used motor, single attachment flat platen, tool table rest, frugal approach =$265 to $300 |
#8
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Neat job, Tracy.
Good on you. |
#9
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Rob's 14" wheels now have an internal bearing; no more pillow blocks. He does use a riser block:
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/kmg12-14.html You'd have to drill two more holes in a toolarm, and possibly put it on a stand so the wheels hang off the side. 14" wheel kicks butt. Last edited by fitzo; 09-03-2007 at 07:24 PM. |
#10
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Quote:
my first set of plans sold today on ebay after listing them last night...i'm buying... |
#11
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Fantastic achievement Tracy!
I'm ordering my plans now. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#12
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Neat setup Tracy, my project is using similar materials, but welding is required. Hope to see some folks build this one. I agree that 14" wheels rock, Rob could even put together a 14" package.
__________________ Cap Hayes See my knives @ knives.caphayes.com This quote pains me: -- "Strategically placed blood grooves control blood spray in covert deanimation activities." -- |
#13
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Very nice there Tracy!!
I have a KMG but have been thinking that I wanted another grinder so I wouldn't always be shifting between the platen, slack & small wheel. I know I'm just being lazy but some things I grind for a minute on one than shift to another and to another a minute after that. It's like drilling multiple pin holes. It's really not that hard to change bits; it's just a pain to drill one hole & change for two. Two drills are nicer than one. I could even save a couple pennies due to not needing a tool rest for the slack & small wheel. Jim __________________ I cook with a flair for the dramatic, and depraved indifference to calories |
#14
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Tracy,
I assume that you've used a similar set up for a good bit to run it through its paces, but I have to ask: How well does a bolted assembly compare to a welded assembly in terms of holding together? Does vibration tend to loosen the bolts? I assume using lock washers wherever possible reduces this. Otherwise, a great idea for those of us waiting to have the pennies for a KMG! Nathan |
#15
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In staring at the pictures, I questioned how simply squeezing the square tubes together with the diagonal 'straps' and bolts could prevent all movement and slipage. However, Tracy has established himself as an accomplished researcher here in the forums and I'll bank on his reputation. Besides, I have a few ideas to bolster the strength of the joints if I feel the need.
The house needs a roof, so that put the KMG back on the back burner..., again. This is a very timely opportunity which will save me hundreds! Thanks Tracy! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
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