Quenching files

[paul harm]

just about everyone uses 1 part f.c. to 3 or 4 parts water - you may have to do it more than once . i usually dip , then sand with 600 , and repeat 3 or 4 times . try dipping again a couple of times and see if it helps - paul

[AwP]

It's hard to bring out a hamon sometimes, you'll need to do multiple etches with cleaning in between. When I etched some damascus I was amazed at how easy it was compared to trying to do a hamon, one dip and it looked like damascus. You'll want to etch, sand lightly, and etch again until the hamon shows after the sanding, though I'd use a higher grit then 600, I'd use 1000+ grit.

[Crex]

What Paul said. Straight from the bottle is to strong etches everything fast. Dilute and run through the procedure several times for better results. Directions on the bottle are for etching electronic circut boards - dissolving copper film at a fast rate. Take your time and be patient.

[Chuck Burrows]

I think that the "case hardened' theory is OK, but unlike Medieval anecdotes

Richard if you read that closely he's basically making "blister" steel which was the "basic" method of the period - blister steel essentially being a deeply case hardened steel.

[Azhanti]

OK, I must say thank you to all the good folks who have posted here, I just finished my 1st forged blade (after three failed attempts, may not be too bright but I'm stubborn). And I tried to quench in brine (mistake), she cracked but good on me.
So I ground down the flaws put her back in the forge (a period WWII Military coal forge) and redid the blade. On the advice of a Metalurgist engineer friend of mine I quenched it in Straight Anti-freeze diluted 10%, and darn if it doesn't work great.
I'm using the leaf springs out of an old car, lotsa fun heat em up cut on the anvil then 'rip' the cut piece on the anvil again. Never dreamed this could be so much fun. Lookin forward to #5 blade tommorow night.

Any comments would be welcome . . . .

Sean McCulloch

[Fox Creek]

Originally Posted by Chuck Burrows

Richard if you read that closely he's basically making "blister" steel which was the "basic" method of the period - blister steel essentially being a deeply case hardened steel.

Well, of course chuck! I guess there is a difference between making blister steel and just case hardening a poor edge on WI, but it would be just in degree, or would that be a rhetorical distinction.
and SEAN, I have never heard of hardening in an antifreeze solution. THAT is a truely new one here I think. I hope folks try it and report back. makes sense intuitively.