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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts. |
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#16
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Re: Re:Tips, Tricks of the trade, etc.?
Well, if she has some tupperware that is going into the trash, you can recycle it for parts storage. Ya recyclying , your saving the environment and everything |
#17
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Re: Re:Tips, Tricks of the trade, etc.?
Yeah. That's what I'l tell her. Thanks! (As he departs on his quest for the aged and ancient and polluting T-ware....) Great ideas, all. |
#18
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Tips, Tricks etc.
This isn't much but my knife maker friends will tell you about the many uses for masking tape I find in my shop. If you want to lay a polished blade flat or folder blade liners on your grinder tableor on your drill table to work on, have no fear just use a piece of masking tape underneath. A quick hold on end for a set up pin can be a drill bit with masking tape wrapped about the end. Another helper that a newer maker may not know about is to make a T out of masking tape with the sticky side at the outside f the top of the T and to place this against thin materials for sanding when they cannot be held with a small magnet to work on. Not too complicated but perhaps helpfull to someone. Frank Niro. |
#19
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Re: Tips, Tricks etc.
I can see this thread going on for a loonnnng time! We'll have to rename it "Tips never End." Lots of good stuff already and much more to come, I'm sure. At least I hope! Thanks Peter and Frank, and everyone. Good ideas that could take years to figure out by one's self. |
#20
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Re: Tips, Tricks etc.
I just put a couple of 2" strips of masking tape down on my desk top and mix my epoxy on it. After I am done, just peel it up and trash it. |
#21
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re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
Have you ever discovered that you have a small void in the solder job and you have just epoxied your handles on? Get you some of the atomized stainless steel from Brownell's, mix with a bit of epoxy and fill the void with a pin or a toothpick and when it dries clean it up with a piece of brass, buff it and you won't be able to find it. It will look dark gray when it sets up, but it will buff out like the solder. I've never tried it with JB Weld, but it should work with it too. I have mixed some with some epoxy I dyed and it gave it a silver speckled look when it was finished and buffed. Tom |
#22
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
Have any of you tried the blue masking tape? It makes less of a mess on the blade when you're ready to take it off, if you cover teh blade to protect it after it's polished and soldered, or the bolsters are in place. I doens't want to stick at times, but is a lot less hassle to remove. R. Velarde informed me about it. |
#23
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
I may try that blue masking tape. My blades spend a lot of time taped up for various operations during construction. When the tape has been on for a while it will leave a behind a horribly gunky mess when removed. The absolute best thing I've found for cleanup is a spritz of WD-40. While we think of WD-40 as slippery like a lubricant, I believe it is technically more of a slovent. It will desolve the tape residue in seconds. The gunk will easily come off by wiping it with toilet paper. |
#24
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
Be sure to clean the blade, etc. first with naptha and the tape will adhear a bit better. Bob Sigmon PS: Don't forget to clean your hands to keep oils & etc off the adhesive. |
#25
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
There are many grades of masking tape. In Auto painting, sometimes you need a tape that will not stick to well, because if it does it remove the paint when you peel it off. All you knifemakers complain about hand sanding. try hand sanding a car down to 2000 not once, but 5-6 times. |
#26
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
I use old manila folders, cut to size and wrapped with masking tape instead of taping directly to the blade and they are reusable.I have a box full.I also use the bottom of a beer can for mixing epoxy.Nice and clean perfect size,and I suppose soda cans would work for the non-drinkers.I use some scrap .062" aluminum for blade templates.Dave |
#27
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
We've opened the floodgates. Keep them ideas a commin'. Thank you, all. |
#28
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Re: re: Tips, Tricks, etc.
For sanding, go to the auto parts body shop store and pick up some squee-gees these are 2" X 3" rubber squares that we in the custom car game use as the backing for the sand paper when we sand cars. You can also pick up rubber sanding blocks, that are designed to have stiffness but still some flex in them. They are usually set up so that you can fold and tear a piece of sandpaper into 3 or 4 pieces and the teeth will hold the paper to the block. These are what we use on the flat sections of cars. the squee-gees flex more and are great for sanding curves. We wet sand car bodies (water) and keep that paper clean! If you let it build up it will scratch the paint (or finish in the case of a knife) |
#29
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Tips.Tricks ect.
Well here is another "simple" one (aren't they all} that I just found to use yesterday. When drilling some materials like mammoth ivory or pearl-using a little oil to help the drilling the little bits (yes that's what is there name, by the way}- clog up real dad. Trying to use your finger nail the clear the bit while it is moving may work but watch out if it catches you! The EASY way to go that does a way better job is to use a tooth brush while the bit is turning. Frank Niro. |
#30
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Re: Tips.Tricks ect.
Great! I'm always wondering which drill for which ball, or screw. Good, and safer, idea on cleaning the drill bits, too. Thanks! |
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art, blade, brand, building, fixed blade, forge, forging, grinding, guard, handle, hidden, knife, knife making, knives, material, noob, pivot, post, sheath, solder, stone, supplies, supply, tang, trap |
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