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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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A Basic Leather Sewing Question...
Hi All,
I am extremely new to sewing of any kind. In fact... I cannot even sew a button on a shirt without screwing it up. Since I started making knives I knew that I would need to eventually learn the art of sheathmaking. For the last couple of months I have slowly been purchasing tools for this experience. Recently I purchased Chuck's DVD set and have watched it. Chuck uses needles to sew with and is extremely skilled. Well.... during my tool purchasing process I picked up an "automatic awl". This was before I had watched Chuck's DVDs. I have not attempted any sewing yet, maybe next month. Can I use this awl to make leather sheaths or is it best for me to scrap it and learn a method of using needles? I have not attempted any sewing yet but want to get off on the right foot. Thanks! __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#2
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you can use the awl or you can use a method that uses a needle on each end. Or invest in a small leather sewing machine. I can sew anything. Wedding dresses to saddle repairs.
If you buy a wheel that marks where your holes go then use your awl, you will find this quick to learn and it is fun. Heating up plastic and adding some rivets is pretty easy to learn but will never offer the unlimited beauty of leather work. Stick w/ the awl if u need help pm me. |
#3
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piggy,
Thanks! I did indeed pick up a #6 stitch wheel when I was accumulating leather tools and I will start out learning the way of the awl. I share the same opinion regarding Kydex. If I ever decide to make tactical knives... then maybe, but they don't appeal to me nearly as much as well crafted leather for most knives. I'm the same way with handgun holsters... just always preferred leather. I appreciate the advice! __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#4
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Just my personal opinion but I would ditch the automatic awl. The saddle stitch that Chuck Borrows was doing is less likely to rip out if the thread breaks at some time in the future. The picture below show how you might use the needle from it however. Just use it by itself chucked up in your drill press and use the needle to pre-punch the holes for your sewing needles. The board is just clamped to the stage of my drill press and has a hole in the middle for flat work and one almost at the edge for things that won't lay flat.
IMG_0067.JPG You don't need to turn the press on just use it to shove the needle through where the leather is marked with the stitching wheel. Something that I missed when I set up the shot, however, make sure that you chuck the need in straight. After that I just clamp the work up in the stitching pony, wax my thread, thread the needles, and start sewing. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#5
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There's a reason behind everything Chuck demonstrates in that video, including using a saddle stitch.
It's really easy to do a saddle stitch, once you've had a little practice. __________________ God bless Texas! Now let's secede!! |
#6
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I'll give saddle-stitching a try, it doesn't look too complicated.
... need to build a stitching pony. __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#7
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Mr. Borrows work is amaizing. I agree, saddle stitching is simple, but not easy. I have only made 3 sheaths with this stitch, so no expert.
You will want several harness needles to use as guide pins if you are putting sheaths together with welts and loops and straps, etc. Also I have to push the needles through with a 16oz leather pad in my palm and pull out the other side with pliers. ( I drill the holes on a press with a 1/16" drill, I could probably use larger) When I pull the stitches tight it begins to pain my fingers after about 10 or 15 stitches so I pad the side of my fingers with tape. Additionally check out Ian Atkinson of Leodis Leather on YouTube. He has hours of leatherwork on there. |
#8
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If you are drilling the holes, which is really not the best way for quality sewing, move up to 5/64" rather than 1/16". The 5/64" bit is likely to wander, it is stronger, much easier to push the needle through, and when finished, looks no different than the 1/16" hole stitching. If you want to do the best quality work, use an awl as Chuck shows. I drill with the 5/64" bit myself, but knowing that it is not going to look as good as Chucks work.
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#9
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I did the drill and stitch for many years until one night I woke up with my hands around my throat mumbling something about leather sheaths.......broke down and got a Tippman stitcher. Best investment I've made. Fingers do a happy dance every time I pull the cover off!
As you can see Chris, there are several ways to skin a cat, recommend you give them all a try and pick the one that works for you then do it until you get good at it. I've watched your knifework progress and can see that you have the mindset and hands for doing good work. You'll find the leather work a nice change up from rubbing out a blade. You should master it with a little effort. Read through all the stickies above as well...lots of good tips/tricks tucked away in each one of them. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#10
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Quote:
damon.... I watched a bunch of Ian Atkinson's vids prior to purchasing Chuck's set (I think he goes by satansbarber on youtube). I like his philosophy and way of explaining things and will be using some of his techniques for sure. Thanks! __________________ Stay away from fast women and slow horses |
#11
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Chris, if you want to keep your holes looking "clean", punched one's tend to look a little puckered on the backside, get a big sail cloth needle and set it in a piece of wood for a comfortable handle. Use this to smooth the ragged or puckered holes by pushing the leather back in the holes. Don't have to go all the way through, just enough to clean up the hole. Gives a more professional look.
I held out on the Tippman for 35 years, but wound up stitching 10 to 20 sheaths at a sitting. Made my hands hurt just to look at leather. The Tip freed up a lot of time for me. I now do that many sheaths in the time it used to take for just one. Sure seemed like a lot of money at the time, but paid for itself in about 2 months. My good friend RLo (Rick Lowe) wound up doing a lot of production leatherwork and finally had to break down and buy one. His volume of work paid for it in less than a month. Big plus is that if you suffer from arthritis, as most of us old poots do, you can stay in the game without the pain. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
advice, art, automatic, bee, blade, build, demo, easy, edge, holsters, knives, kydex, leather, make, making, palm, plastic, press, rivets, sheaths, stitch, switchblade, tactical, tools, video |
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