Bandsaw Blades Again!

[MongoForge]

I checked the archives and
couldnt find anything definite..

What TPI do i need for 1/4 metal??

I appreciate the help..
Mongo-

[whv]

iirc, most recommend three teeth in contact, so that works out to 12tpi or more.

[Geno]

Mongo,
I use the Bi metal blades from TKS with 18TPI.(pretty standard)

[Guy Thomas]

Who carries bi-metal blades that would work well on 1/8" steel? (24 tpi)

[Alain M-D]

Hello! I have also a question about bandsaw blades...

I plan tu buy a cheap metal bandsaw soon.
I would like to buy only one blade to start...
I will want to cut 440c and ATS but on several different
thicknesses (3/32, 1/8, 5/32 and 3/16)

In this case, how much teeth would be best?
(do you really use a different blade for each thickness?)

Thanks !

Alain M-D

[Jamey Saunders]

The experience I've had cutting stainless with a bandsaw leads me to suggest that you just go ahead and buy a dozen blades. Mine never last long, and my saw is running on it's slowest speed.

[Brett Bennett]

Alain,

I'd suggest a 24 tpi blade if your not making a large number of blades in various thicknesses. If you are, it would probably be best to get the best blade for job.

Jamey,

I had a similar experience with some blades, particularly the junk I bought at Home Depot. The blade only cut a couple of blanks before it was rendered useless. I've found the Lennox bi-metal to greatly outlast others I've tried. Even when I've sheared a few teeth, I've been able to continue using these blades for some time. That has not happened with other bi-metal blades I've tried. I think K&G has them.

[Jamey Saunders]

The ones I'm using are Lennox bi-metal. I get them from my local welding supply store. It could be that the saw is still running too fast. I don't make enough knives to go to the trouble of re-working my bandsaw drive, though. If I ever find a job that gives me the free time to really get into making knives, I'll have to do that.

[Osprey Guy]

I've got one of those cheap Harbor Freight bandsaws (it's the same model that everyone carries...some suggest that they all come in on the same boat, and each dealer puts in their own motor and repaints it their color...the one I got from H.F. has 1hp motor as opposed to 1/2hp or 1/3 hp offered by Grizzly or Enco, etc.), but they all put their version on sale every month or two for around $179.

The blade that came with mine was ruined by the 2nd day. I got one of the 24 tpi bi-metal blades from Grizzly and have used it on all sorts of metals at various thickness...still working great! I keep the speed set at the slowest of the three speeds...80 fpm (vs. 120 or 200fpm).
According to everything I've seen or read the slower speed is best for cutting metal, especially harder metals like stainless.

My buddy Bob Sigmon (Siggi) told me a little while back that his bi-metal blade has lasted for months without requiring a new blade...of course he and I aren't knocking out several blades a day, but for a part-time maker you should expect long life out of these.

BTW- The bi-metal blade at Grizzly was around $19.95. Just in case, for a back-up, I recently purchased a blade from Enco for just under $15 (normally cost a buck or so more, but they were on sale)...the highest tpi they sell in a 64 1/2" blade (standard for this model of bandsaw) is 14tpi...sufficient for up to 1/4" metal. TKI charges $26.95 for essentially the same thing.

Dennis

Yeah Baby!

[Don Halter]

I got one of the horizontal/vertical bandsaws from HF for Christmas. I cut several bars out of a flat of 1/4" 1095. It didn't dull, but it stripped teeth off a 2" section! (I guess technically, I ruined it in a few hours!) I still use the blade...it just stutters when it goes across the bare spot. I was suprised it cut what it did! (about 6' worth of cutting through normalized 1/4" 1095). next time I'm in Houston or Austin, I'll get a couple bi-metal blades to replace it.

[N House]

Lennox bi metal,they cost alittle more put they are worth every penny.I have had mine going on 2 years and have cut everthing from metal to Micarta,mine is 18 tooth.I think I got it from Koval or K@G

[MongoForge]

Is the variable tooth
any good for profiling?

[N House]

That is what mine is,work like a charm

[Gary Mulkey]

I sometimes wonder if getting a quality blade is worth the extra money or if it would be better to get cheap throw-away blades instead. I currently have a Lennox bi-metal blade on my saw which was only 5 minutes old when three teeth got nocked off. Ten minutes later another 2-3 teeth & now it has three bad spots to go bump-bump-bump each time the blade comes around. Even though this was my own fault for forcing stainless liner material through the saw too fast, if it had been a cheap blade then I wouldn't still be trying to get my money's worth out of it like I am. It's kind of like throwing away an aluminum oxide belt for the grinder compared to a Cubitron.

I guess that they both have their place.

Gary

[Geno]

In order for the Bi metal blades to stay sharp, they must be very hard or glasslike. That means that they can not take the flex of a softer blade.
Turning tight corners with a Bi blade will brake teeth.
Make several relief cuts first, then cut away.
Without the relief cuts, corners break teeth.
Most important thing is to let the saw do the work, don't force it.

BTW Anyone ever sharpen a Bi metal blade with a dremel and small cut off wheel?It takes a while, but it is like a new blade again.(be patient)